Replies

1. 
   Frank Vucolo | Jun 14, 2009 07:28am | #1

   Hi Don,

   Personally, I'm comfortable with 1 inch. I've got the attachment for my Biesmeyer and have been using it for years. But your question got me to thinking.

   Creating a safe situation so that the cut-off, on the diagonal could not contact both the blade and fence would depend on the size of the cut-off and it's orientation.

   For example, on a cut-off that is 12" long and 8" wide, you would need an additional 2.5" (approximately) since the diagonal would be 14.42" - in other words, you would need a 2.5" stop block.

   However, if the cut-off were oriented the other way and you were taking 8" off a 12" wide board, you would need a cut-off block that is 6.5", since the diagonal would still be 14.42. 

   If you were to cut only 2 inches off the 12" board, you would need an even longer stop block to prevent the diagonal from contacting blade and fence. That diagonal would be 12.2 - so for that 2" cut-off, you would need a 10.5" stop block.

   OK so I'm thinking too much now!

   You should go with the largest stop block you are comfortable making, using, storing and understand that it still won't cover every circumstance. It's the peace of mind that matters here.

   I'm guessing that the 1" clearance is about 99.999999% safe unless you start letting cut-offs build up between the fence and the blade.

   Frank

    

    

2. 
   hammer1 | Jun 14, 2009 01:41pm | #2

   There are different ways and reasons to use a stop block. If a waste piece results that is left loose between the fence and blade, a stop block on the fence isn't good choice. If you were using it as a reference for a non through cut, shoulder of a tenon for example, it may be appropriate. You have to determine if it's going to be safe as well as whether it will be accurate for the task you are doing. There are often alternatives that make more sense from both perspectives. You can always remove or back up the fence and clamp a block, alone, to the table. You can add a fence to the miter bar and clamp a block to that. Just because they show the method in a book or provide it on a saw doesn't mean that it's worthwhile.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   JohnWW | Jun 14, 2009 11:37pm | #3

   Don,

   Maybe I'm not following how you plan to use the block, but the block should be on the side of the miter gauge fence where your hands are holding the stock down and against the fence so there is no chance of the stock jamming between the blade and the block and being thrown. You should never set up a cut so that an uncontrolled piece of stock is caught between the blade and the stop.

   John White
   Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007

1. 
   DonC | Jun 15, 2009 12:39am | #4

   Hi John,

   I'm referring to using a stop block attached to the rip fence.

   The off cut is to the right of the spinning blade and left of the fence. If one uses a one inch stop block, the offcut has a one inch space. If the offcut vibrates to  diagonal position, it can pinch and fly back at the operator.

   I like being able to use my accurate fence measuring tape and adding the distance of the stop block.

    

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 15, 2009 02:40am | #5

   Now I understand, and yes 1" is a narrow space. I use an "L" shaped block for this application. The short leg is the height of the rip fence and creates a good surface to clamp on. The long leg, 4" or 5" long, creates a good wide gap for the cut off.John W.

1. 
   DonC | Jun 15, 2009 07:13am | #6

   Thanks John,

   I think I'll go with 5 inches.