When my sheet goods are delivered I lean them against the wall down one side of the shop. I mostly use 3/4″ and 1/4″ birch ply. I have 17 feet of wall clear so I can have two stacks. When I need a new sheet I slide it on its edge out into the middle of the shop where I have 4 saw horses ready. I lift one edge up onto the first horse so that it rests over the legs and is stable. Then, holding on to the sheet to keep it upright, I move to the other end and lift that up onto the last horse. Then I lie the sheet down and cut it up. This system works well for me and means I only have to lift half the weight at one time.
A friend uses a different system. He has built a rack near his main work table, and stores his sheets horizontally. He uses a wider range of types and thicknesses than I do, so I guess it makes sense. When he is on his own he has to slide a sheet off the shelf and on to the table. I’ve not seen him do this but it sounds a bit dangerous to me (he does lots of stuff that I don’t, no guard on his TS, very little dust extraction, etc etc
Any suggestions as to which system is better, or would a different sytem entirely be better still?
On a seperate note, I would like to order a non-plunging router direct from the States (I’m in the UK, and only plunge routers are sold here). Any suggestions as to a reliable supplier who will send by Air at reasonable cost?
TIA
John
Replies
If you have the luxury of space, then horizontal stacking works fine. If not, like my old shop, I stacked sheet goods vertically, with 1/2" rebar (metal rods) into brick and covered with felt, to separate different goods. It worked quite well.
Some other pros and cons. If you have a 4x8 + space to build shelves, you can put a lot of wood in that space horizontally. If you store vertically, it's harder to use the space between 4' and the ceiling.
If you're not real careful about the lean angle, it's easy to warp things standing on edge.
If you build a bunch of shelves, you waste a lot of storage space. If you don't build a bunch of shelves, it's a lot harder to get to the bottom sheet on the shelf.
Other handling issues:
- Remember the Panel Skate? I thought it was a great idea, I just didn't need one at the time.
- People sell various kinds of handles for carrying sheetrock. They also work for plywood.
- I've seen nifty tilt top carts for getting plywood from vertical storage to horizontal table saw.
- People who handle steel plates have gripper thingies for lifting plates standing on edge. They use leverage to grip tighter the harder you pull on them. Something like that might make it possible to use vertical storate without needing space to slide sheets out the end.
- Suction cups powered by dust collector or shop vac?
- Air tables, like air hockey?
It's not a good idea to stand your sheets. Very good chance they will bend or warp. The same thing can happen if you leave one side open to the air. They should be flat with a full sheet of cover plywood on the bottom and a cover on the top. If handling alone you can build your rack to match a rolling cart with locking wheels. Match the cart to your table saw or make the cart your cutting station. You will do more sliding than lifting.
Amazon.com has a good selection of tools at good prices. Some tools have reviews written by owners. Is your electricity the same as in the US? You will have to pay any applicable import or VAT taxes in addition to shipping I would guess. That's the way it is coming from your side of the pond to here.
(I'm in the UK, and only plunge routers are sold here).
John
A US. spec motor is wound for 110v at 60 Hz.. Running it on our 50Hz isn't really recommended, the motor wont be getting all the cooling it needs as it won't be running at it's max speed.
The only fixed base router I've seen this side of the pond was in B&Q... they have a 1250W model in their Pro range.... It's not without it's faults, and it's obviously built to a price rather than quality spec, but it's fairly capable. Just don't push it too hard. The bits supplied with it are best confined to the bin... Dangerous isn't the word!!
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
John -
I have to go get my sheets of plywood. I back the pickup up to the shop, slide the pieces off onto saw horses and rip or crosscut them with a circular saw and a guide. Being 62 years old, I find this is much easier on my old bones! When I was a young buck, I'd horse them myself through the table saw using a roller stand of the back side of the table saw.
I get just enough each time to do the job at hand.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
bosch makes their 2hp model (1617?) in a 220v version that might work (aren't you guys on 220?). i'm not sure if it's a variable speed unit, but amazon carries them. not sure if they'll sell/ship one to you but you could at least check out the specs. and btw- i would definitely recommend bosch routers.
m
I do the same thing, Planewood. I'm 58 and quit trying to horse 3/4" plywood thru the TS years ago. Are we smarter 'cause we're older or just lazier? - lol
Smarter!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
The age statement must not be always true.If so,my 85 years would make me smartern anybody.It aint necessarialyso.¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Try contacting http://www.hafeleonline.com they have a great catalogue and they also have alot of material handling equiptment. I have on of their carts that flips from verticle to horizintal, plus it has a hydrolic lift built in and 1000 lb. capacity.
to MIGRAINE
RE: I looked up the Hafele cart you mentioned. It is not on the web site, but they were able to fax me the info.
This thing is slick! But the info from Hafele did not come with prices. Do you know how much it costs these days?
A lot of manufacturers maintain retail prices for stuff they sell direct. Would it be better (cheaper) to search out a Hafele distributor?
Thanks.
I have seen these lifts/carts range from $450 and up depending on sales. Another company is Louis and Company. They were bought out a few years ago by and European company, so this might help you overseas. Try http://www.louisandcompany.com
John,
This is a link to a previous post (Knots) of mine regarding the sheet goods storage in my shop. http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=13228.7 The design allows you to easily flip through a sizable stack of plywood (MDF, etc...) without having to unload half a stack of material just to get pull out the one you want.
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask!
Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
John
why do you need a non plunging router?
I've a small Bosch plunge router. When I need to use it like a non-plunge model, I just take the springs out of the plunge rods so that there is no return pressure. I can then set whatever depth I need.
why do you need a non plunging router?
Want rather than need. Mostly for use in a router table to be left set up to do just one job, ever. I believe the height adjustment will be more accurate, and I don't want to pay for stuff I won't use. I make my own router tables out of laminated kitchen worktop because the types that use an insert tend to have a slight up or downstep where the insert joins the table. I machine out a recess underneath to accomodate the router and the whole system works extremely well and is very cost effective.
Most (all?) plunge routers used in a router table use a height adjuster that works on just one side, and can lead to binding when the router raised or lowered, making very fine height adjustments difficult. I could buy a routerlift but simply don't need one
John
John
look at the Makita 3612. It has variable speed and a fine height adjuster mounted on top of the body.
Addendum to my earlier reply;
I don't have a problem with sheet goods standing vertically, and warping. Anyway, most times you build with them, they are attached to a substrate and easily pulled into alignment where needed.
1 Word...Panelsaw...or is that 2 words...
JC
http://www.ukok.com/panelmate/panelmateimage1.html
This is the best panel handling cart you can buy. The US equivalent isn't as nice in my opinion.
I looked through the website, and could not find any info on U>S> availability and cost.
I tried to send them an email (on the contact us form), and it would not go through.
Do you happen to know anything about North American distributors of the Panelmate?
Thanks.
I don't believe there is a source in the US but the reason I like the design so much is it looks like something that could be easily made just by looking at the picture of the unit. As far as ready made off the shelf there is http://shopcartsusa.com/ Hafele also has a unit it offers as well which is more reasonably priced I recall. You will have to call them for more info as I don't think it's listed on the site. The cart is great for a one man shop as you can unload the panel from your truck and use it to store the panel horizontally or vertically in your rack and just as easily pull out the panel and feed it on your horizontal or vertical saw without hurting your back and not to mention damaging the panel. I can't tell you how many cabinetmakers I know with bad backs.
Thanks for info.
I do have a simple system for pulling a sheet out of my van (horizontally) and wheeling it into the the shop, and sliding it onto a horizontal cutting table.
That works fine for material that is specific to a particular job.
But surplus sheets must be stored vertically in my shop, and I have been using a drywall panel lifter to carry them around and hoist each sheet up to the cutting rack (20" high), and then droping it down. this has worked fine for years, but the older I get the heavier the sheets seem to be, so I am looking around for an alternative system.
I recently bought a cheap block and tackle set-up ($12), and have been playing around with finding a good way to let the pulleys do most of the work.
Suggestions/ideas would be most welcome.......................
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