Replies

1. 
   Terrye | Jul 21, 2002 06:47pm | #1

   You might try "Doormaking a do-it-yourself guide" by John Birch.  It covers most of all your questions.  There are not a lot of books on doormaking - at least not that I have found and I've been looking.  I am in the process of making several doors for myself so I have been researching this for the last month or so. 

1. 
   DonStephan | Jul 21, 2002 08:12pm | #2

   You might consider also researching exterior finishes for the doors. Lots of gorgeous wood doors became scrap because owners couldn't keep nice looking finish. Ultraviolet light damage, paint damaged by intense heat of summer, ... Would love to add wood doors when we remodel but will look very hard at fiberglas.

1. 
   user-7424866 | Jul 24, 2002 11:32pm | #4

   Thanks Don.  Sounds like smart advice -- I'll do it!

2. 
   dhpascoe | Jul 27, 2002 08:54pm | #7

   Boy, you got that right. I'm one of the victims of the desire for natural finish wood doors. In Florida with any kind of sun and weather exposure, wood is just out of the question. The lone exception is teak, but you still can't keep a finish on it when the sun gets to it. So called U.V. resistent finishes are BS.

   I won't even bother to tell you about the six varnished French doors I once had. Disaster!

   With  a western exposure, I had no choice but to go to a plastic door. Pittiful, but that's the way it is.

   Dave of Florida

1. 
   SteveConroy | Jul 27, 2002 11:18pm | #8

   Jim,

   The doors here in Tucson Arizona get a beating. We have well over 300 days of sunshine a year, and dramatic changes of humidity in summer monsoon season. I looked for some time for a finish that would give my clients' doors the best UV protection and flexibility.

   I learned through this forum that high end boat finishes seem to be up to the task. There are a number of them out there, I'm not talking about McCloskeys Mano'War or other items you can get at Ace or Home Depot. The best stuff is available at marine supply stores or internet suppliers. Epiphanes, Interlux, and Z-Spar are the most common. All of which provide the best UV protection.

   I phoned different suppliers and the consensus favored Epiphanes (made in Holland). They carry a wide variety of varnish, polyurethane, enamels, and their newest (what I've been using) RapidCoat and RapidClear. This is a finish that acts much like a lacquer in that it dries quickly, getting three or four coats in a day. No sanding is needed between coats. Best of all it can be brushed, rolled, sprayed or whatever. I prefer spraying. It flows out very nicely, giving a nice semi-gloss finish without much fuss. One draw back, this isn't cheap stuff ($32 for 750 ml for what I use).

   You can order it straight from http://www.epiphanes.com They don't charge any extra for shipping. In fact, I called their 800 number and the salesman sent me a free can for a sample.

   To be honest only time will tell if this was the best course of action, but I know I did my homework and provided the best product available for wood doors.

   One last thing, teak is not the only wood that wears well in exterior applications. I am quite partial to Ipe.

   Steve

1. 
   user-7424866 | Aug 11, 2002 07:22pm | #9

   Steve,

   Lots of good stuff in you message about finishes and wood for ext applics.  Thanks.

2. 
   user-7424866 | Jul 24, 2002 11:28pm | #3

   Thanks for the prompt reply!  I'll try to find the book you suggested at either Amazon or Taunton-Press.  Where'd you get yours?

1. 
   Terrye | Jul 25, 2002 12:45am | #5

   Amazon -

   Terry

2. 
   AlanTurner | Jul 26, 2002 12:32am | #6

   2 years ago I made 3 pairs of french storm doors for the house. About 2' X 7.5'. Hondouran Mahogany. One smallish raised panel at the bottom, then 3 essentially square "lights." They matched the existing french doors of the house (all of the mullions are in the same place). The real doors are painted, but most who drive by think that the strom doors are the actual exterior doors.

   1. On the glass, I used tempered since the middle two panes of each door are in a person's falling range. Don't know the building code spec on this, but it is important to use tempered or safety glass. REal easy to slip and fall, go through a pane, and be seriously injured. Cost was about $12@ for basically 18" square tempered.

   2. I used a waterproof polyurthane glue, which worked fine, but was a pain. Today I would use a slow setting expoxy from West System.

   Works easy, good long set up time, strong, no odor. Easy to mix with their pump system. One push of each.

   3. Finish was a spar varnish, over a potassium dichromate "stain". This was ugly to work with, and quite poisonous. An outside job. Not sure that was a good decision, but the color is great. Will have to revarnish every 2-3 years.

   4. All joints were mortise and tenon since I wanted a squared look.

   5. The stock was a bit difficult. For a door, the stiles must be really straight. Take yor time here. I had some "sprung" wood, which ended up as rails.

   It was not too difficult, but did take a bit of time.

   Good luck.