Over in the RAS discussion there was some discussion about straight lining with RAS or TS. For those that use board buddies or similar devices I have a simple jig that I have used many times with great results. I use an 8 ft strip of 1/2″ baltic birch about 3-1/2 “s or so. Cut strips of 100 grit sandpaper about 3-1/4″ and contact cement them to one side of the 1/2″ ply along the length. on a separate piece of scrap 1/2″ ply cut a piece approx 3-1/2″ square. On this piece I shoot a few brads into the edge of one side, leaving them proud of the edge, nip the heads of the brads off leaving leaving them still proud 1/8” or so.
Take this piece and fasten at one end of 8ft strip on the sandpaper side with the nipped brads pointing the length of the plywood strip, It is done.
1) To use, lower blade below table.
2) Place sand paper side down over board to be straight lined.
3) Attached, 3-1/2″ block with nipped brads will be tapped with
palm of hand against end grain of board to be straight lined.
4) Now adjust height of board buddies for thickness of board to
be straight lined and 1/2″ 8ft strip.
5) Now adjust table saw fence for amount of material to be
removed from board and rip. Use a push stick to finish rip.
This jig can be made shorter to suit individual needs and needs no mechanical fasteners to secure board to jig, sand paper and nipped brads along with pressure from board buddies work every time. I have used this jig many times, with a properly tuned saw and a glueline rip type blade, I have done glue ups rite off the table saw.
I do not work for or represent board buddies brand in any way.
I’ll post some pictures, if any one is interested.
Thomas Love.
Note: for Bob from Kiddersville, My fence is also Biesmeyer type and I have never had to clamp end of fence down due to pressure from board buddies. This slight upward movement of fence dose not effect its the parallel registration to blade. I note this as I have read in another post by Bob, during his use of the board buddies, with the biesmeyer type fence.
Edited 3/26/2008 8:34 am ET by gofigure57
Replies
Pics would be great. Not sure I understand what's up with the second piece of ply & brads.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Hey mike, I will post some pics when I get up to the shop.
Heres some pic Mike, Hope they help.
That was quick! Thanks.
I have Board Buddies, but rarely use 'em. I'm already thinking of a way to modify that fixture to work without 'em.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks, keep me posted.
Hi Tom,
So if I understand correctly, if there is the slight rise on the fence it will not rise above the top edge of the fixture and thus have no adverse effect on the rip cut?
If I tension my BBs too much it seems this is when the issue presents itself, but I'd rather they be a bit overtensioned than too loose. I'll have to give your jig a go.
I slao came up with a push stick similar to yours 'cept it has a handle and is just long enough to clear the blade and goes betwixt the BBs and the fence as does yours.
Much obliged for the pics and explanation,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hey Bob , As the piece of 1/2" ply sits on top of the board to be straight lined it sits somewhere about 1-1/2"s above the table against the fence. I had noticed when I first tried the board buddies about the fence rising due to the tension from the rollers, As you had pointed out in another post. I to , agree I would rather have more tension than not. I don"t think its necessary to clamp other side of fence down, Just my opinion. I have used this jig on many occasion when the boards are to long for my 6" jointer . If necessary I'll clean the up with a hand plane. Thanks for posting , I enjoy reading your posts.
Thomas Love
Hey man,
I do like your jug and am going to give it a go. It also looks as though it would help with the push stick issue too as it gives one a little more room.
Thanks for the idea,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hiya Bob and All ,
We are so lucky that there are so many ways of doing the same thing .
Here is yet another jig for straight lining crooked boards , this is the fastest most accurate and easiest to use jig I have ever tried . I have an 8' , 10' and a 12 foot long jigs to accommodate most lengths I use .
dusty
That's exactly the modificatin I was thinking of. You beat me to it. I just happen to have a full sheet of 3/4" ply left over from a recent job that's in my way. I'm a-gonna make me one of those pronto!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike and Gofigure ,
No push stick is needed with this type and of course no tacking is required , however on several occasions I have dropped a small pin or screw to the back side of a way crooked and flexible board so it would not flex towards the fence .
On very thick stock the jig could rise up near the top of the fence so an auxiliary fence slides over the bies fence , same I use for ripping angles and such so the jig has a surface to fence off of , only on thicker than 8/4 stock which is rare for me .
dusty
I like those,. I'm going to try a six footer.
thanks Dusty.
Dusty,
Your 2nd picture is kinda blurry - does your version of the jig just sit on top of the board to be straight lined? Is there sandpaper on it? What keeps it from slipping?
Mike D
Mike ,
I am obviously photo challenged , some setting seems to be off on my digital camera like every other photo may be blurry , sorry .
No sandpaper needed on this jig . The one in the picture is about 4 1/2" wide with a 1" strip running on one side and on the tailing end so the jig pushes the wood with no push stick needed . It does simply sit on top of the piece to be straight lined , all you need to do is place the curved side if there is one against the jig so at least the ends of the board are touching the jig and run it through the saw .
The small end strip keeps the board from slipping
If the jig looks well worn it is because it was made about 20 or so years ago
hope this helps , let me know if not and I'll snap another picture for you
dusty
Dusty,
Got it! A super solution.
Thanks,
Mike D
Your very welcome , my pleasure , anytime I can be of help .
d
Just a note of clarification. I assume you always place the concave side of the stock against the fence when using this jig so at least two points touch the fence. (If you put the convex side against the fence, the stock would only contact the fence at one point and it might "turn" during the cut.)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike H ,
Yup , the concave edge always against the jig , as I said in post # 15 that way at least both ends will make contact with the jig .
dusty
dusty,
Thinking about this a bit further I was wondering if a Tru-Grip would work? I bought two of them (4' & 8') that were on closeout at Western Tool a while back.
They're primarily used for panel cutting plywood but it would seem that they could be used for straight-line ripping of bowed boards as long as the bow isn't too extreme. Of course if the bow was extreme then shorter pieces from these would yield less waste anyway.
Just a thought,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi Bob ,
I am not familiar with the Tru-Grip product , it sounds like it is designed as a guide for a skill saw . You may be able to adapt it by placing a backer strip to push the stock like my jigs have , as long as it already has a strip running the length of one side as well .
It also sounds like it is made of metal of sorts and personally I choose not to run metal near the blade , accidents happen when you least expect them . In fact several times when I was ready to run the jig and board it slipped from my hands and nipped the corner of the jig on the blade , so maybe it is better out of wood .
As the Llama people say " spit happens "
dusty
only cause I just got one... The festool saw w/rail does this quite nicely.
Comes in a darn nice box to.
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