How do you go about straight Lining rough sawn lumber.? I have a source for timber sawn to the width and thickness needed, but isn’t straight Lined.
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Edited 9/26/2005 2:53 pm ET by ProWoodworker
Edited 9/26/2005 2:54 pm ET by ProWoodworker
I have a 12'-0" x 15" x 3/4" piece of mdf. I use toggle clamps at each end and sometimes one in the middle. The board is straight and parallel. The rough board lays on top of the mdf guide. Toggle clamps hold it down with one edge protruding the mdf. The mdf rides along the fence, the rough board gets a clean straight edge. After all the boards have one straight edge, the other side is ripped without the mdf guide.
Make the board out of a length of mdf that suits your longest length of stock. You need good support at the infeed and outfeed tables. My toggle clamps are the T handle type, the handle is not in the way of the fence as this type of clamp locks with the handle in the up position.This is a safe and quick way to straighten one edge. If the boards are less than 1" thick, I recommend the Freud glue line rip blade ( 30 teeth). If they are thicker I use the 24 tooth Amana or Freud blade. The glueline rip does exactly as advertised, no jointing needed.
mike
Thanks for the help, I appreciate your prompt feed back.
Pegasus
I snap a line and cut to it with my bandsaw. Works great, and saves the jointer.
Jeff
Oood Idea, Thanks for the feedback.
Pegasus,
I bought a piece of extruded square aluminum from the hardware store...about 6'. Works well.
Thanks for the tip. Good Idea.!!!!
Pegasus ,
Well , here is another way to straight line lumber . This jig is quick accurate and there are no holes to make or clamps to clamp . I have an 8' , 10' and a 12 foot jig . Put the concave side towards the fence .
good luck dusty
Thanks for the tip. The attachments are a big help.
Seth
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