Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Jan 19, 2005 01:58am | #1

   What do you mean by "straight lining"?  Making the edge of a board straight?  The face straight (flat)?  Parallel to the opposite edge/face?

   We can help, I just don't understand what you are asking.

1. 
   LLB | Jan 19, 2005 03:10pm | #4

   Sorry, what I need is a way to make the edge of rough sawn lumber straight so I can get got straight  cut when I run it through my table saw.

1. 
   WayneL5 | Jan 20, 2005 06:03am | #5

   One of the safest ways is to use a bandsaw.  Using a long straightedge, draw a line just barely enough to get the edge straight, then cut it on the bandsaw.  Then rather than taking the other edge to the table saw, lay out a parallel line on the opposite side after the first cut, and cut it again.

   The reason for going to the bandsaw for the second edge, and for making the first cut before drawing the second line is because a board that has much bend to it may spring more when cut, so after the first edge is cut, there may be some movement.  So, let is spring if it's going to before drawing the second line. It's good to avoid trying to cut a board that my move on you on a tablesaw, too.  And it's dangerous to do so if you don't use your guard and anti-kickback pawls.

   If you don't have a bandsaw, a jig saw or circular saw could be used.

   This method will not produce as smooth a cut as a table saw, but it safer, and the board may move anyway after your cut, even if you could jig it to ride straight through the blade the first time anyway.  Then, take a light cut on your tablesaw, or go straight to the jointer.

2. 
   Ragnar17 | Jan 19, 2005 03:16am | #2

   How many boards do you have to do?

   I know a full-time woodworker who uses a radial arm saw to "straight-line" his stock.  He has long fences on either side of the saw -- maybe about ten feet in each direction.  Then, it's just a simple matter of rotating the saw carriage to be parallel with the fence, setting the width of cut, and pushing them through.  I'm sure you know to always keep the concave part of the board towards the fence.

   I like his approach, since the work piece is always supported.  I have a jointer, and when I'm trying to straighten a 16' board or something like that, it can be very difficult to do -- even with a helper or outfeed rollers.  If I ever got into a situation where I was routinely straightening long boards, I think I'd invest the time to set up my radial arm saw to do it.

1. 
   LLB | Jan 19, 2005 03:07pm | #3

   Thanks Much,   I already have the set up to do it, just not the brains to realize it.

3. 
   DougB | Jan 21, 2005 01:22am | #6

   to straighten long boards that won't work well on my jointer I use what a I call a jointer sled on my table saw.  It is simply a piece of plywood 12" x 96".  I place the bent board on the left side with just enough of the piece to hang over the sled the entire distance.  At each end of the sled I have jerry-rigged a hold down  with nothing more than a piece of hardwood (slightly thinner than common rough stock and fastened to the sled), a 10" long piece of oak at 1-2" wide (the flange), and a screw.  As I torque the screw down the board becomes held down by the flange onto the sled.  Then I simply run the sled against the fence of my table saw and the board becomes as straight as factory edged plywood.  It is a very simply concept, can be built in a matter of 10 minutes and I use it all the time.

   hope this helps,

   doug

1. 
   chills1994 | Jan 21, 2005 02:35am | #7

   it probably be a while till i can post them, but i've got some pics of a tapering jig i made for a shaker table class.

   it would work for putting a straight edge on a board

4. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 21, 2005 02:54am | #8

   1. Warped plank View Image	2. Clamp it View Image	3. flip it over View Image
   It transforms your favorite circular saw into a straight line rip saw with glue join accuracy. Originally, it was designed to process panels, but with the addition of the smart clamps, the capabilities of the guide are infinite. View Image

   EZ Dino.

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jan 21, 2005 05:05pm | #9

   I agree with Dino all the way.  I have two of his setups and they work great for this application.  Much easier than a jointer IMHO...

   PaulB

5. 
   notDusty | Jan 23, 2005 02:24am | #10

               llb ,

       As we can see there are many ways to straight line boards. Here is how I do it on the table saw .I have an 8' , 10' , and 12' jig . Take an obviously straight say 1x4 or the equivalent fasten about a 1" strip to one side , and on the back end fasten a small block for the rest of the width ,so as to trap the board being made straight .This will have created a large L shape . Place the board you want to run concave side to the long strip. Measure from the outside of the jig to the smallest dimension then set your TS fence accordingly , rip away. I like it because it is fast and there is no clamping or fastening to use it . This is just one way and there are many . I hope I explained it right it is hard to verbalize.The borad you are making straight goes under the jig.

           let me know if you need more info

                      good luck                 dusty

1. 
   brownbagg | Jan 23, 2005 06:13am | #11

   I saw in a magazine, and I have also tried. a piece of angle iron screwed to the concave side. run trough the table saw with angle iron on fence, remove iron then run back through saw to get other side.

1. 
   notDusty | Jan 23, 2005 06:40am | #12

          BROWNBAGG ,

        Yeah the angle iron will work , when I apprenticed we would shoot a straight edged board on with a nail gun but from a distance so the nails did not set , so they were easy to pull out .The beauty of the jig I described earlier there are no nail or screw holes left and it is pretty instant , in that it dosen't get fastened .

                                        dusty               

1. 
   BG | Jan 23, 2005 03:41pm | #13

   llb,

   You can get a 1" square by 6' or 8' piece of extruded aluminum from the hardware store.  I just the put the concave side of the board up against the aluminum and push it throught the TS...I don't need to attach it, but you could.  Flip the board over, reset the fense, and push through the TS....done.  If my TS blade is not sharp I may need to touch the edge with a block plane if I'm gluing up a panel...