Replies

1. 
   DRBWWing | Dec 04, 2023 01:01pm | #1

   I don't see why.

2. 
   lat_axe | Dec 05, 2023 09:43am | #2

   At 3/8" wide, it's perhaps better described as banding. But what's in a name? :-)

   It's more forgiving - but more wasteful - to the final fitting to make such stringing/banding stuff deeper/thicker than the customarily very thin commercial bandings of 0.6 - 1.0mm thickness. This is because .....

   It's easier to cut a channel of some depth and slight variations in that depth than it is to cut a very shallow channel that has to be be almost exactly the very small depth equal to the thickness of the very thin banding or stringing. Cut a very shallow channel by a couple of tenths of a millimetre too deep and you'll end up having to sand down large areas surrounding the stringing because its sunk below the level of what its been inserted into.

   I often use 1/8" X 1/8" black stringing of either black-died holly or maple, to delineate a glued-in ply panel of a frame, say. I generally route (with hand or machine tool) a channel about 2.8mm deep. The inserted stringing will be proud by around 0.4mm, which is easy to plane and pare down with a mini plane to be flush with what it's inserted into.

   I also put in commercially-made bandings, often of around 3/8" wide. The pretty ones are usually very thin as they contain exotic woods so a thicker one would be wasteful and costly. It can be difficult to avoid making their channel just a tad too deep.

   In practice I tend to make the channel not quite deep enough so that the banding is proud by 0.1 - 0.2 mmm, which needs the banding sanding flat. Tedious, that - but not as tedious as having to sand much larger areas of any surrounding that ends up higher than the banding. :-)

   Solid wood stringing or banding is relatively inexpensive, so my advice would be, cut a deeper channel, making the stringing/banding proud when it goes in - then plane it flat. If you can be accurate enough in cutting the channel depth, 0.2mm proud is enough and unlikely to see a section of the channel floor drop enough from the rest to allow the stringing/banding to sink below the surface of what it's set into.

   You might have to sand the last 0.02mm flat as a plane can bite the surrounding wood as well as the proud stringing/banding when the two are nearing co-planar.