I have a six panel hemlock door (solid wood with a hemlock veneer – Jeld-Wen Home Depot variety) that I have applied one coat of water based clear satin varnish (Wood Pride brand). Since applying this one coat, I’ve changed my mind about staining the door – I wish I would have. I’m trying to match the door trim which is stained cvg Fir. I tried applying the trim stain directly over a small piece of the door that I cut off when installing it and the stain didn’t seem to absorb, due to the one coat of varnish. I’m hesitant to sand the door, in that it is just a thin veneer of hemlock over particle board. Furthermore, sanding the recesses of the six panels would be a chore. Stripping it seems like my only option, unless you have any other suggestions? Perhaps a stain that will “go over” the varnish?? I have no experience with striping wood. Could you recommend a product that is easy to use and that will allow me to get this door back to bare wood so I can stain to match the trim?
Thanks,
Jon Edwards
Replies
Jon,
First things first; is it interior or exterior?
An alternative to stripping the doors is a technique called glazing. By definition glazing is a translucent film of color over a sealed surface.
Sand the coating with 220 or 320 to smooth the surface and clean the dust off. A gel stain can be used as a glaze. An oil based gel can be thinned out with mineral spirits so it is not so thick.
Thin it out, and work in sections doing the panels first. Apply some with a brush , cloth or paper towel. You can lightly wipe the excess off and using a soft brush "feather" it in. In other words brush it lightly to even it out. The panels are easy because they're small
After the panels, do the rails next. You can wipe any glaze you pull onto the stiles off with a little paint thinner. After it is dried (overnight at least) with a low stick tape, tape off the edges of the rail where it meets the stile and glaze the stiles. When complete remove the tape.
When the surface is completely dry (smell it) you can re coat. Be sure and check the label of your finish for compatibility. You can always seal the glaze with Zinseer Seal Coat (blonde shellac) if there is an issue. It is compatible with any topcoat.
There is another product called simply glaze. A variety of companies make it. It is a colorless liquid that you can add color to. Just be sure if you get alkyd glaze you add oil based colors to it. There is a latex version that you add water soluble colorants to it. Water based glazes dry more quickly as a rule so you need to be aware.
I always tell someone to check some of the finishing books out there and read about a new technique first. It will be helpful in the long run.
FWIW, if you decide to strip the door, try and find a local shop that does it. It will cost less in the long run. If you do seek out a shop, I would ask them to use clean stripper on it as the wood in your door is fairly light and you don't need it affected with a recycled (dirty) stripper.
Good luck.
Peter
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