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I made 2 tall hall tables with mirrors about fiteen years ago- 1 of walnut (oil), the other maple (lacquer). I kept them, and now they need refinishing due to minor scratches & dents.
I realized that I’ve never had to strip finishes off my pieces. My instinct is to carefully (of course) belt sand, & random orbital sand what I can reach and hand scrape and hand sand the rest to remove the finishes, but should I consider a chemical stripper to make the job easier?
Fitfteen years a woodworker, and I’m embarrassed that I know nothing of refinishing!
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
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Please, please don't sand. Why remove all the character from a piece plus making an easy job hard. If the finish is not really badly scarred you might try something like Howard's Restor-a-Finish to freshen the finish. If not, just strip--it won't be a difficult job with a clear finish--and re-apply what you want. Be sure to remove all vestiges of the stripper.
*MikeI agree with Gretchen on 2 points: don't use a belt sander, and try Howard's.However I wouldn't strip either piece. A new coat of lacquer will dissolve a some of the prior coat & form a very strong bond...a chemical bond. It will fill in the dents & scratches so that you won't be able to tell it's a new coat.For the oil: While a new coat won't dissolve the prior coats, you can get good adhesion with a mechanical bond. To do this, wipe the piece down with naptha to thoroughly clean it. Next sand LIGHTLY all over with a 220 grit paper or 000 grade steel wool. The reason for the sanding is to put microscopic scratches in the surface for the new coats of oil to adhere to....the mechanical bond. Use a tack rag to remove all dust & debris, and then apply new coats of oil. If there's discoloration in some of the scratches you may want to use an artist's brush & some stain on the scratch prior to the new coats of oil, but test first. Often the oil will color the scratches.Good Luck,Bob
*Gretchen rarely, if ever, will lead you astray. Try Howard's. Frankly, I'd leave the wear pretty much showing. Anything that Howard's won't fix I would leave.
*Thanks for all your advise! I will try Howard's for most areas of the piece. The 14" x 10" top of the walnut stand is water-stained and black-streaked, so I may just sand the top and recoat it, unless you can advise another method of removing the black water marks.If I did decide to strip the whole piece, what type and brand stripper would you recommend for the oil and lacquer pieces?Thanks!Mike D
*Might as well go with the big boy - Methylene Chloride. Yep, the bad-ass cancer causing, ozone eroding monster. It will get the work done quickly. Do it outside with a well-fitted organic vapor mask with fresh cartridges. Follow the rest of the instructions on the can to the letter.
*If you have black marks from water stains then the damage is to the wood and not the finish and may require bleaching (try fresh chlorox first). Use the stripper (Bix, Kleen-strip) and see how the marks look after that (the wet test will show them up--wipe down with mineral spirits).
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