Replies

1. 
   badoyn | Feb 06, 2003 11:12pm | #1

   Wow. Thanks for the info.

   Michael

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 07, 2003 05:08am | #2

   Michael - the forum says there are 2 responses to your question but they don't show up when I click on your post - so if this response is redundant, that's the reason.

   - I liked the finish without the shellac. Can I just drop that step and go straight to the stain?

   Yes, you can skip the shellac. I don't see any good reason to seal the oak before staining. You will get far less coloring on the wood unless you "paint" the stain on.

   - I put two coats of stain (the first for 10 minutes before wiping and the second for 6 minutes before wiping) on the samples, which were sanded to 150. Is this okay to use two coats?

   It's fine to use 2 coats of stain. You must be using an oil-base stain. Once an oil-base stains dries, you can apply a second coat without the solvent dissolving the first coat and smearing it. This is a problem with some types of stain - not most oil-base stains.

   - Should I use mineral spirits to clean up my badger brushes for both the stain and poly?

   If the stain can be thinned with mineral spirits (MS), you can use MS to clean your brush. However, I would not use such a good brush to apply stain. Personally, I use a rag or spray gun to get the stain on the wood. You don't have to apply the stain nice or neat - get it on the wood and wipe the excess. I like to use a rag to apply the stain, squeeze out the excess stain, fold the rag, then wipe the excess stain leaving a wet, even coat of stain. Using this technique, I avoid the need for a second coat of stain.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   BOBSKIBBY | Feb 07, 2003 06:03am | #3

   STUPID QUESTION! Hello! I was always thought that there is no such thing as a stupid question. The people at this site are great and will help you with whatever problem you have. Enjoy your hobby and put 100% into your project and ask a million questions and enjoy. Bob

2. 
   badoyn | Feb 07, 2003 06:49pm | #8

   Paul,

   Thanks for the comments. I like the idea of wiping on the stain with a rag, it should go a bit faster too. I thought I'd have to brush it on because it's a large piece. I'll just do it in sections.

   One more thing...does the stain continue to darken after it dries?

   Thanks,

   Michael

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 07, 2003 11:04pm | #9

   Hi,

   I'll just jump in here quickly then disappear as I'm not in this discussion.

   I was always trained to rub on stain in a small circular motion with a tightly folded rag (about the size of a US dollar bill) and then to wipe off the excess immediately with a clean rag, going with the grain.

   Cheers,

   eddie

   Edited 2/7/2003 3:05:59 PM ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   badoyn | Feb 07, 2003 11:15pm | #10

   But I thought you were supposed to leave it on for a few minutes so it soaks into the wood. At least that's what the can says.

   Michael

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 07, 2003 11:23pm | #11

   Hi Michael,

   Follow the instructions on the can, who am I to argue with the manufacturer who's invested hundreds of thousands of dollars in product development.  I, however, thought an uneven application may lead to blotching (?) going down this route.  Just my first impression.

   I use a professional stain on the rare occasions when I do stain.  This one is wipe on/wipe off

   Cheers,

   eddie

   Edited 2/7/2003 4:48:37 PM ET by eddie (aust)

2. 
   badoyn | Feb 07, 2003 11:34pm | #12

   A professional stain? Does this mean it instantly soaks in or just covers the top, kinda like paint?

   Michael

3. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Feb 08, 2003 12:09am | #13

   Hi Michael

   Soaks in, but supplied in 4L tins or the occasional 1L tin, pure stain only, no varnish and only comes in 'yellow' 'red' 'black' etc,  you have to mix to get the colour you want.  Thinned with lacquer thinners so you don't have a long open time

   The supplier doesn't have this product on their website as it goes to trade only, but here's something that's close.

   http://www.wattyl.com.au/cf/wattyl/w_sheetqry.cfm?Data_Sheet_No=5.02

   As well, look at this with a view to bookmarking.  It's one that I get my students to use.  Very comprehensive and easy to understand site on finishing.

   Cheers,

   eddie

4. 
   badoyn | Feb 08, 2003 12:37am | #14

   Awesome. Thanks.

   Michael

2. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 08, 2003 05:21am | #15

   Michael - when you wipe the excess stain, you can see what it will look like when you apply the clear coats. Once the stain dries, it looks dull, possibly darker, but the clear coats will bring it back to life and to the shade it was while wet.

   As far as stain application goes, to give you an idea of how I would apply stain to a large piece like the bookcase at this link - http://www.boomspeed.com/firstfinish/BookcaseRedMahog.jpg - I would lay it on its back, pour a 12" diameter puddle in the center of the upper section and use a rag that's wet with stain to very quickly spread the stain over the entire interior of the section. Then I squeeze the stain from the rag and wipe the excess stain from the upper section. Do the same in the lower section starting with a smaller puddle. Then the sides. The whole bookcase takes 10-20 minutes to stain.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   badoyn | Feb 08, 2003 08:30am | #16

   Great. I'm going to have to try that with a scrap piece and see how I like it.

   Thanks again for all your help.

   Michael

3. 
   Splintie | Feb 07, 2003 10:12am | #4

   I do believe it would be best to delete your post

   Aw, Richard, tell 'im about posting a link...like you do to your website. <wink>

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 07, 2003 10:16am | #5

   And while you're at it, tell him that some of us didn't see anything at all in his message. All I saw was a completely empty gray frame. Not even a scroll bar.

1. 
   Splintie | Feb 07, 2003 10:42am | #6

   I could tell you the story, but i wouldn't want to destroy the suspense.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 07, 2003 11:20am | #7

   Good. I appreciate you watching out for me.