I am new to woodworking and would appreciate some advice.
I am following the plans for Asa Christiana’s Sturdy Workbench in Fine Woodworking’s “Start Woodworking” magazine. It specifies using 4×4 lumber in the supply list yet the plan shows the legs to be 3.5 inches wide.
Is this because 4×4 lumber is a nominal size?
There is no reference in the article to cutting or planing the 4×4’s.
Thanks
I
Replies
Yes. A 4x4 is not 4" square anymore. Neither is a 2x4 2" by 4". actually they haven't been full dimensions for a very long time.
Thanks for the reply Dave.
I am in England so all wood here is sold using metric measurements.
To keep things simple I am going to follow Asa,s plan using imperial measurements. I will ask my timber merchant to custom cut the legs and stretchers for me using feet and inches.
When you buy 2x4s and 4x4s in the US what size would you expect them to be in reality?
Do you think I should ask for 4 inches or 31/2 - likewise 2 inches or 11/2 as the detailed diagrams show? Just thinking of the overall result.
Best Regards
It doesn't matter too much what I expect because wood keeps getting smaller. :)
Take a look at this link. It has a table of softwood construction lumber dimensions which should help you out. As an example a 4x4 measure 3-1/2" square.
As far as it goes, though. I'm sure that most of the dimensions aren't so critical that you couldn't work in standard metric dimensions if you want. For example, choose the standard dimension for a square timber for the legs. Is that about 85mm? You might need to modify a few dimensions on the bench but I think you'll be fine. It may be less expensive if your timber merchant already has timbers that are close to what you need and the bench will turn out fine.
Dave
Thanks for taking the time to reply
Best Regards
Exact dimensions aren't important, but rather relative sturdiness and availability of materials. Over here, so-called 4x4s are commonly available at home improvement centers for various uses, including fence posts and such. You likely have equivalents on your side of the pond. Use, or glue up, components that fit the sturdiness objective.
Thanks for the reply Ralph.
Best Regards
You may already be familiar, and if so I apologize. Here across the pond, rough-sawn lumber is sold 4/4 (about 1" thick), 5/4 (about 1.25"), 6/4 (1.5"), and 8/4 in the most common types of hardwood and softwood. Other thicknesses may be available for certain species of wood. This product still has all the lumber mill sawmarks and cups/bows/twists et cetera common to even kiln dried lumber. It has not been surfaced (joining/planing/et cetera).
"Ready-to-use" lumber has been flattened on all four surfaces, which of course has removed some of the wood from the rough-sawn board. With some patience and attention, a woodworking shop can joint (flatten) one side of a rough-sawn 8/4 (2" thick) board say 4' long, and then plane the other side flat and parallel and still have 1.75" of thickness, but not always, and not in a production environment. Production wood mills hog off 1/4" off each surface regardless of board condition, so that they can guarantee that almost all of the resulting surfaces will be smooth. As a result, a nominal "2x4" becomes an actual 1.5" x 3.5", a nominal "4x4" becomes an actual 3.5" x 3.5" et cetera. Starting at a nominal 8", the actual is 3/4" less, so for example a nominal "2x10" is an actual 1.5" x 7.25" I think.
Similar situation probably exists on your side of the water, but ask around to be sure. Likely as not the exact thickness of the pieces in your plans are not crucial, but based on common actual sizes of ready-to-use lumber here in the US. Granted, it might not be advisable to substitute an actual 2" x 2" piece for one designed as nominal 4" x 4" or actual 3.5" x 3.5", but you probably don't have to have exact actual widths and thicknesses.
Thanks so much for the detail Don and your time taken to reply. Much of what you have explained I was unaware of.
Best Regards
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled