I am in the process of applying finish to a QS white oak pedestal table. Following the recipe in Bob Flexner’s book Understanding Wood Finishing, I am using Watco dark walnut danish oil, and have so far applied two coats (used 600 grit wet-or-dry while applying the second coat, as he recommends). I am somewhat disappointed in the the rather large contrast that has resulted between the earlywood, latewood, and ray fleck features of the grain pattern. I thought the Watco oil would do a better job of flattening the contrast.
I am planning to eventually apply a polyurethane top coat, and that may help subdue the contrast (based on my experience with other oil finishes). But, is there anything I can do at this point to help tone down the contrast? Would additional coats of the Watco help?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Replies
quarter sawn white oak
The darker the finish the more contrast you will get with quartersawn white oak. Stain or dye mixed in with compatible finish coats will lessen the contrast,, thin coats and sneak up on the effect you desire.
You might want to clean off the Watco with a thinner and a Scotch brite pad before you start. A film building finish like shellac, varnish, laquer or even a waterbase finish with a slight tint (make sure it is compatible) will allow you to even out the contrast.
Most people use quarter sawn for the contrasting ray fleck in the grain so hiding it is counterproductive to most of us.
Always prep sample pieces from your scrap when you are building a project, use the same sanding, scrapeing, and even route an edge or 2. Test your finish on these. I always finish a few scraps alongside the project as I go thru the steps. If I make a mistake I can test the repair on the scrap.
Good luck!
Steve
http://www.steveduncan.com
I doubt thinner will remove the Watco if it has been on over night. Woodwerker's advice that you can reduce the contrast by applying a film finish with pigment or dye is correct, though it will obscure the natural grain appearance of the wood.
If you had wanted to keep the flake figure from popping out, you should have used a dye, preferably a powdered water soluble dye. It's too late for that unless you were to strip off all the Watco with a chemical stripper. Dye penetrates both dense and porous portions of the wood well since it's colorant is molecular sized, not the much larger pigment.
ake consolation that it could have been worse--you might have begun with a Minwax type pigment stain, which would have heightened the contrast even more because the pigment is ground relatively coarse. The Watco colorant is asphaltum, a very fine pigment, essentially the same material as roofing tar.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled