Got a customer that wants cocobolo dyed. Any suggestions? Oil based stains don’t do to well. Water based stains are worse.
Never used aneline dyes. Know nothing about them.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
Got a customer that wants cocobolo dyed. Any suggestions? Oil based stains don’t do to well. Water based stains are worse.
Never used aneline dyes. Know nothing about them.
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
PlaneWood
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Replies
I have a half-dozen transtint colors and some cocobolo off-cuts and would be happy to try and let you know--what colors are the customers looking for?
[Only slightly] less seriously, if your clients want to dye cocobolo, are you sure you can't steer them towards "paint?" Comes in even more colors....
/jvs
Medium brown. He wants to mute the tones of the flambouyant cocobolo!
What are transtint colors????
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Transtint colors are a dye stain concentrate that mixes with water, alcohol, acetone, shellac, lacquer, waterborne finishes, and catalyzed finishes. They have excellent light fastness and the colors don't shift in different finishes. They are about the only dye stain I have used in years.
Woodcraft carries them, or you can buy direct from Jeff Jewitt at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com.
Michael R
Michael nailed it. Non-grain raising is a bit of a stretch, but true relative to water-based dyes. Great stuff.
Has the customer seen aged/oiled cocobolo? As I'm sure you know, it mellows a bit on its own.
/jvs
edit--I'll try some "mission brown" in the next day or so and let you know.
Edited 10/16/2003 9:25:28 PM ET by jvs
John (now I know your name!) :)
Where can I get these dyes? Would they mix with denatured alcohol?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Found them on Jeff's site. I'm going to order some tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!!!!!!!
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Sherwin Williams has a complete line of dye stains (ready to use and concentrates) that perfectly match your description of Transtint dyes. I use the S-W dye concentrates quite a bit and am very pleased with their performance.
Regards,
Kevin
Planewood,
Three different kinds of aniline dyes are available:
Water-soluable
Oil-soluable
Alcohol-soluable
You might want to also read about mordants, which can dramatically effect the way dyes and stains impact wood color. Mordants can also be used by themselves.
There are countless finishing books available, but I wouldn't hesitate to recommend "Wood Finishing with George Frank" published by Sterling.
Good luck,
Paul
Paul,
Aniline dyes are fugitive, that is to say not light fast.
TransTint colors are much more light fast and mix with water, alcohol, and lacquers as I mentioned above. You can even mix them with oils if you dilute them with acetone first. Plus, the colors are much more stable and don't shift under different finishes. Other manufacturers make similar products, but TransTints perform best for me.
Try 'em, you'll like 'em. It's a wonder to me why anyone still uses "aniline" colors.
Michael R.
Edited 10/17/2003 8:19:23 PM ET by Woodwiz
You'd better learn about them because there is nothing that comes close in practically every category that makes a difference in stains.
Boss - are you talking about aneline or transtint dyes??
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood
Aniline dyes specifically. I use the water soluble kind almost exclusively as they are supposed to be the most light-fast of the anilines. I don't know much about the Trans Tint dyes, but I think a lot of people like them. They may very well be an aniline dye based product; I don't know.
Boss,
According to Jeff Jewitt, who makes Trans-Tints, they are a metallized acid dye dissolved in glycol ethers, which are compatible with a fairly wide range of solvents.
It sounds to me like they are similar to a lot of modern fabric dyes, but that's just a guess on my part. I've used them in custom finshes for what seems like a long time now, and I've never found anything better. They are definitely much more light fast than any anilines, and they are very easy to work with.
1 ounce of concentrate makes a quart of "standard strength" stain, and they come in a dropper tip bottle, so that when making up samples it is really easy to keep track of your mix just by counting drops or measuring with spoons or a graduate. About 30 drops to a milliliter, about 30 milliliters to an ounce, etc.
Microton stains from M.L. Campbell are similar, but teir colors aren't as stable under catalyzed finishes. Mohawk's Ultra Penetrating stain concentrates also appear to be similar, but not as easy to work with, in my opinion.
Michael R
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