Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 04, 2010 02:45pm | #1

   No reason why that won't work
   No reason why that won't work quite nicely. Dewaxed shellac should be used for best adhesion of the USL, but that shouldn't be a problem.

2. 
   Westchester | Jan 04, 2010 02:57pm | #2

   if you selectively seal the lighter wood to preserve the color - then stain using something without dyes because dyes can penetrate finishes or sealers. Your contrast should be better.

   SA

1. 
   cwalvoord | Jan 05, 2010 02:04pm | #3

   Thanks Steve and Westchester. It makes sense that the dye was penetrating the sealer and muddying up the inlay. It sounds like I could still use the gell stain glaze over a coat of shellac to add a little depth and evening of the color, followed by the USL. I will give it a shot on a sample.

   Thanks again.

   Chris

3. 
   joinerswork | Jan 05, 2010 06:41pm | #4

   Chris,

   I like to dye inlaid walnut with a "yellow maple" water based dye. It eliminates the bluish look of the walnut, and doesn't darken the light inlay too much.

   Ray

4. 
   RMillard | Jan 07, 2010 12:12pm | #5

   Chris,

   You might try sealing the inlays with the USL and apply a wash coat of de-waxed dark shellac, followed by an oil based warm brown glaze. When the glaze has fully dried, it can be sealed with de-waxed blond shellac and top coated with the USL. This will preserve the contrast of the inlays and help the color of the walnut, especially the pores.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

1. 
   cwalvoord | Jan 07, 2010 01:37pm | #6

   Thanks Ray and Rob. I think I need to make up some more inlaid samples and try out two new finish schedules!

   Chris

5. 
   DonStephan | Jan 09, 2010 08:39pm | #7

   A number of years ago, Jeff Jewitt suggested auto paint striping tape for a similar situation. The tape is avaiable in a number of very thin widths, and is very flexible. You could apray a dye after taping off the inlay, but wiping probably would lead to migration. I sprayed with alcohol soluble dyes hoping the alcohol would evaporate before migrating under the tape. Seemed to work.

1. 
   cwalvoord | Jan 10, 2010 11:45am | #8

   Thanks, that is an interesting suggestion - Jeff always has some good ideas. I suspect you are correct that the dye would migrate under the tape if it was wiped on. I am going to try some samples and see if I can get away without the dye all together but if not I will give the auto striping tape a shot.

   Chris

1. 
   cwalvoord | Jan 21, 2010 01:44pm | #9

   So I have now tried a few different variations on the suggestions I got here. The most successful was sealing the inlay with a brushed application of USL followed by two coats of dewaxed dark shellac. This gave the walnut some life and did not compromise the crispness of the stringing and inlays. In an effort to get a little more depth and fill/highlight the pores of the walnut I tried both Belhens water based pore filler tinted to a nice brown and separately some Bartlets gell stain as a glaze but both tests significantly muddied the inlay and stringing.

   Unless anyone has any other ideas I think I am just going to have to go with the shellac and a USL top coat. The walnut is a little lighter than I might like and the finish a little "thin" but probably acceptable. The inlays are yellowheart and bloodwood FWIW.

   Chris

6. 
   Zahn2 | Feb 08, 2010 10:20am | #10

   I do this a lot on conference tables. We also do inlays and marquetry work that has to be natural with the rest of the wood dyed. I use Lockwood water based dyes or Mohawk NGR dye depending on the job. The trick is to spray the dye on evenly and not let it puddle. There are a couple other tricks. The 3m fine line tape works best but only if you seal the inlay first and the BURNISH the tape so there is no leakage. Burnishing tape on raw wood will cause the wood to splinter when removing the tape. On odd shaped inlays where I can't easily seal the inlay I use art maskoid. It is a clear masking liquid that will seal the wood from the stain and then peel off like rubber cement. Again the trick is not to saturate the wood with dye. Use multiple coats of light passes of color if needed or it will bleed. NO WIPING!

   http://www.andrewjericompany.com/