Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 07, 2010 01:53am | #1

   Sure you could do it I suppose. You would use 2x lumber sleepers tapered to eliminate the pitch. These would need to go over a serious vapor barrier. A layer of plywood subfloor, and then oak common grade tongue and groove flooring. The draw back could be moisture from your concrete slab, which as a garage might not have moisture barriers under it. If there is a moisture problem you will have to take steps to combat that, and perhaps shift from solid wood to engineered flooring to cope with it. Be carefull of slippery finmishes on pre-finished engineered floors.

1. 
   jhonbaker | Jan 07, 2010 10:34am | #2

   I've only had this house
   I've only had this house since may but have already seen the largest swing that the Midwest takes as far as temp/rain/snow/cold with no moisture noticeable on the floor. Even still should I epoxy the floor first? Sleepers is a good idea, I was hoping for something easier as the floor is wonky and not a single slope - warped in the middle cracked in two places. - I think the result would be worth the effort tho - so thank you!

   is there something else you would recommend instead as your post starts with the whole "I suppose" thing?

2. 
   Don01 | Jan 07, 2010 10:52am | #3

   Depending on the amount of irregularity, you could:

   - level the entire floor by flooding with a self leveling concrete product.

   - if the unevenness is caused by settling, mud-jack the pad level.

   - remove the existing floor and start over with proper insulation and vapor barriers.

   I think having a level surface is far more important than having a hardwood surface. Especially in a small area you want things to be where you think you put them (ie no slope). You can always add hardwood later when you expand the shop :))

   Once level there are a number of options as Steve suggested, 2x4 sleepers, good vapor barrier, plywood or OSB skin.

   Anatole Burkin has put Dricore (2x2 OSB on a plastic skin) panels in his shop.

   https://www.finewoodworking.com/Workshop/WorkshopPDF.aspx?id=33069

   It would be nice to hear how that is working for him as many of his machines are on wheels, and I believe he lives on the east coast, so has humidity swings to contend with.

   You can buy the Delta-FL membrane in larger rolls then instal 4X8 sheet of flooring grade OSB.

   You have to check all the option with your local building inspector to confirm suitability for your area.

   Don

3. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 07, 2010 11:15am | #4

   Jhon,

   Can you post a picture of your garage floor? Is it unlevel because it was poured that way, or has it settled to the sides? If it has settled, it can be repaired with a process known as mudjacking. I can help you with that, as I have been a mudjacking contractor for 19 years now. If it's just poured that way to create drainage, you definately DO NOT want to use a self leveling compound/concrete over it, as in our climate, that will fail. Trust me, it's something I know about.

   If you need to ask more questions, call me. You've got my number.

   Jeff

1. 
   jhonbaker | Jan 07, 2010 01:19pm | #5

   The floor has warped on one side in the middle a bit and there are two large cracks - one through the middle width and one radiating out from the center to the door in a corner. I had CRC come out to jack and mostly level the floor when I bought the joint so it isn't too bad but a pain in the a** nonetheless because of the cracks and warp. I don't think further jacking would do me any good. the floor was pitched for drainage to the center but the drain was plugged by the previous owner. I would just hate to pound it out and start over.

   no photos now - the floor is covered in Christmas BS headed to the attic - I'll send you a photo when I can get one.

   All help is greatly appreciated.

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 07, 2010 02:22pm | #6

   Jhon

   There are a lot of factors involved. Is this an attached garage, or detached. I've repaired so many of these in my day that it makes my head spin. You need to consider floor to ceiling height, also. If it's a short ceiling, you might be better off removing the old concrete and having a level floor poored. 1/2" drop, back to front, every 10 feet is enough to prevent water pooling, but not enough to effect woodworking tools.

   How far out of level are you now? How wide are the cracks. If you're detached, is the building on the slab, or do you have a poured foundation with a floating slab. All of these answers will help solve the problem you're having.

   Jeff

1. 
   jhonbaker | Jan 07, 2010 03:24pm | #7

   Jeff,

   Connected - Also, I misspoke - it is about 440 Sq Ft, two car garage. I don't how out of level it is now, I'll have to measure when the floor is cleared again. When I had CRC jack the floor, they said they got it as close as can be but maybe not. However, thinking about the ceiling height (about 10.5 ft) I think I would be better off leaving it and dealing or having a new floor poured. Once I know more (measurements, good photos and such) I'll call you and trade a beer for advice. Thank you much.

   How's the plowing going?

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 07, 2010 08:02pm | #8

   Jhon
   Don't worry about the
   Jhon

   Don't worry about the pictures. I've got a good understanding now. If you add sleepers, 3/4" plywood, etc....you're gonna lose 6" of height. By the time you figure the cost of all that pressure treated lumber, add in repairing the cracks properly to seal the moisture from seeping through the floor, etc.....you might be cheaper off with a new floor. Prices for 2 car around here run $4K to $5k removed, hauled away, and installed. Not cheap, but then you have got it perfect, and can add radiant heat in the floor, etc....

   Don't worry about the beer. I'm here to help you all I can. In the spring, when all this white stuff melts, I can run out and take a peak at the floor for you, and give you the best way to go then.

   Just got in from plowing.....6" and counting. It's supposed to snow until tomorrow morning, so I'm going back out right after the Blackhawks game.

   Jeff

2. 
   jhonbaker | Jan 10, 2010 01:06pm | #10

   Just saw this last night - no notification... oh well, Thank you - this is the conclusion I came to as well, there are a few other shop improvements I want to make this summer so I'll do this first and make the improvements and organize as I move the machinery back in. Probably rent one of those pod things for a few days and work on the landscaping to make the wife happy.

   I seem to remember being told that you can't paint a concrete floor for a year after it is poured due to a full cure - is this true? or just another old garage myth.

4. 
   rhagenstein | Jan 08, 2010 02:17pm | #9

   Jeff:
   I'd love your advice
   Jeff:

   I'd love your advice based on your experience for my similar situation: sloped floor for drainage purposes (makes it hard to keep rolling tools from rocking, hard to line up outfeed tables etc. I'd like to get a level floor (or even a constant sloe from front to back). It is a single car garage, attached but unheated in Anchorage, AK, built 1963 (so don't know what they were doing then about vapor barriers beneath. No indication of serious moisture issues. No serious cracking or movement.

   Your thoughts and recommendations?

   Thanks, Randy

5. 
   Mcdaddy | Mar 09, 2010 06:00am | #11

   Should be wide enough not only for the car but also for some tools and car equipments storage.

   az flooring