Replies

1. 
   user-211435 | Dec 11, 2006 08:01am | #1

   In the close-up photo, I think it looks like the grids are only on the front.  He used a raised frame to stop in the glass.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

1. 
   forechecker | Dec 11, 2006 08:53am | #2

   Hi Hal,

   Thanks for the info...I found the magazine article that elaborated on the upper doors and it looks like in the windowed area there is a 'half lap' joint that holds the 'muntins'. Do you know how I would make this in the door?

   Making it in the muntins seems easy enough...but after I have already created a rabbit in the wood for the glass...how do I then create a half lap joint on the remaining part.

   I hope that makes sense.

   Thanks,

   J.

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 11, 2006 07:37pm | #8

   J -- which magazine is the info in??  I looked on the page with the video and didn't see it.  I'm interested in the design of the corner cabinets.  Thanks!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   DaveTous | Dec 12, 2006 06:44am | #9

   Hal,

   Looks like you do some really fine work.

   Dave

   northernmagiccharters.com  

1. 
   user-211435 | Dec 12, 2006 11:51pm | #11

   Thank you Dave, I appreciate it.

   Hal

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 11, 2006 03:10pm | #3

   Assuming these muntins/mullions are applied to the front of a single piece of glass (as opposed to true divided lights), here's how they are done. Assume that the rabbet for the glass is 3/8" wide and leaves the glass 3/8" back from the front of the door (a 3/8" rabbet that is the depth of the door stock minus 3/8"). Your muntins will be 3/8" thick. Where each muntin will join with the rails/stiles, simply cut a recess in the glass lip for a lap joint with the muntin. I.e., say your muntins are 9/16" wide and 3/8" thick. Cut a recess that is 9/16" wide and 3/16" deep. Then on the ends of the muntins, remove 3/16" from the front each so they look like this in profile:

   front
   ___________________________
    muntin     |_____                         |
   ______________|                        |   ___
   ////////////////////   |                        |         |
       ^                      |   rail                |            depth of rabbet for glass
    glass                   |____________|   ___|

   Whew! It's easier to do than to describe.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

    

1. 
   forechecker | Dec 11, 2006 06:50pm | #5

   Hi,

   That is great the way you laid it out and I am hoping it is easier to do than it looks. But how exactly do you make the recessed cuts for the lap joints? Seems like a delicate area and one that I am not sure how to get a tool into...or actually not even sure what tool to use.

   Thanks again,

   J.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 11, 2006 07:21pm | #6

   "But how exactly do you make the recessed cuts for the lap joints? "That depends on if you want to plug in or not. If you want to use hand tools, just saw the lap joints on the muntins and chisel the recesses in the style. If you want to plug in, you can make the lap joints on the muntins with the TS and a dado blade and use a router to make the recesses, squaring up the corners with a chisel or rounding off the corners of the muntin to fit, as you prefer.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

3. 
   KeithNewton | Dec 11, 2006 05:41pm | #4

   Another nice touch for this detail would be to just use the H lead kime that the stained-glass people use.

   While you are at it, I would use seedy-antique glass in it. The little bubbles and striations would add a subtle detail.

4. 
   bladeburner | Dec 11, 2006 07:24pm | #7

   Here's an idea.

   http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3560

    

5. 
   oldusty | Dec 12, 2006 08:22am | #10

     Hi J ,

                 Looks like Hal said , it is one piece of glass with the grid only on the face side .

      Half lap and notch the grid members and cope them into any detail on the inside edge of the frame , if the detail is just square then saw and remove material to allow the grid to be let into the frame.

     Basically these grids can just be glued to the face and inside frame edge only .

                    dusty

6. 
   glasswd | Dec 13, 2006 04:25pm | #12

   Go to any auto supply and get a roll(s) of trim tape. It's used for holding trim pieces on your vehicle. It's sticky on both sides.  VERY sticky, weather-water proof. You can lay your framework right on the glass.  MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND THOSE WHO YOU LOVE.

7. 
   user-196729 | Dec 14, 2006 01:19am | #13

   As stated in the video, they are hot-glued in.  You would make the grid and then after placing it against the glass, hot-glue them in along the edge of the grid.  Seems simple enough for a small glass panel.  On a larger glass panel it would be a good idea to brad nail the grid to the frame.  There are several ways to insure the glass panel stays put, and that is to use the grid pattern to the outside, then use a silicon bead on the backside of the glass.  Check out a Rockler catalog and they have glass panel strips that fit into a recess behind the panel that a soft strip fits in. 

1. 
   user-211435 | Dec 18, 2006 07:52am | #14

   I actually thought that in the video he said that the stops were hot glued in.  I can't imagine that the grids were hot glued in.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

1. 
   user-196729 | Dec 18, 2006 11:19pm | #15

   Yes, the video did mention that it was hot glued in.  It wouldn't have been my first choice to stabilize the grid holding the glass in place.  To make it easier to clean the glass and given the size of the panel maybe his way was quicker.  I would have used glazing points for the glass and then hot glued the grid in, or used brads to attach the grid.  Each to his own method.

1. 
   user-211435 | Dec 19, 2006 12:03am | #16

   I wouldn't have done it with a grid at all.  I would have just made individual divided lites, which is really the correct way of doing something like this.  It is actually pretty easy to do with square stock and half lap joints. 

   I also would not have left the divider stiles hanging down from the uppers.  Seems weird.

   To each his own though.  Nice that he did the video for us all to see.

   Hal

   http://www.rivercitywoodworks.com

    

2. 
   user-211435 | Dec 19, 2006 12:17am | #17

   You might want to watch the video again.  I just did to see if you were correct in your post. 

   He actually doesn't mention how the grid is attached, but only talks about the stops which hold the glass in place.

   I am assuming here, but I think that he is probably talking about hot glue applied with a hot glue gun.  I've done it before (a long time ago) to install trim moldings around mirrors.  With an industrial gun and the correct cartridge, it works well.

   As far as using glazing points goes, in this situation you would need to notch the molding or grid around the points if you used them.  They don't install flush with the glass surface.  A little bead of silicone would be much easier and insure that the glass wouldn't rattle, then the moldings on the back could be installed just as he says he did it.

   Also referring to your first post about using hot glue to glue the grids in with, it sounds like you are thinking that the glue would sort of be used as caulking around the grid. 

    

   Hal

   Edited 12/18/2006 4:20 pm ET by Hal J

1. 
   user-196729 | Dec 21, 2006 08:26pm | #18

   I have attached photos of the cabinets I made, and you can see that the grid is on the outside of the glass.  The back of the glass is attached by a rubber-silicon trim that fits into a routed groove.  This trim can be purchased from Rockler and is a very economical way to keep the glass in place and vibration free.  If, as my wife likes to do every now and then, you want to clean the glass, you simply take the door off and the trim.  When clean, simply put the bead back in place.  It is time consuming for her, but the glass stays clean the way she likes it.

   Yes, the hot-glue would be applied like caulking.  Not what I would do though, just a suggestion.  Your suggestion of using silicon caulk would be  more appropriate.