I have some solidly built custom kitchen cabinets that are built in place of 3/4″ solid core plywood with a knotty pine finish — I can’t take them down without taking them apart. I’d rather not do that since they’re in great shape. Except for the exterior finish. So 1950s.
To make matters worse, it appears that the cabinetmaker carved a V groove vertically from top to bottom about every 6-8 inches. It’s not quite 1/8″ deep.
I want to install a new veneer face on the cabinets and construct new doors to match. But, I fear the V groove will transmit through the veneer to the outer surface and be visible.
I’ve tried patching the groove with joint compound and wood putty and sanding smooth. Adhesion seems to be a major problem and chunks of the filler have been falling out. Doesn’t give me a whole lot of confidence that the filler won’t loosen under the veneer and telegraph through to the outside.
Any suggestions on how to cover up/do away with the V groove? Sanding the whole surface down not feasible due to inside corners that would be unreachable with a machine (belt) sander or plane and the possibility of uneven surfaces remaining. I’m also not sure what the next layer down would look like.
I could cover it with something, but what? What’s thin enough but strong enough not to be affected by the V grooves and telegraph them through to the surface? I think sheet vinyl would be too soft and plyable? And, I’m afraid 1/8″ luan would be too bulky and interfere with window casings, appliance door openings, etc.
Have been considering installing linoleum — seems hard and inflexible enough, can be cut to size easily, can be applied relatively easily — and then scruff up the surface with sandpaper to accept the adhesive for the veneer.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks in advance to all.
Replies
Aloha, thought about using wood grained plastic laminate such as Formica? I assume you're only talking about the cabinet sides and not the doors.
I'm thinking of attaching linoleum to the sides and front of the cabinets, both upper and lower. And, yes, I will construct new doors and drawers out of solid wood to match the wood of the veneer for all the cabinets. New hardware and countertop too, of course.Griff
auto body filler....
You suggested "auto body filler...."
Why? I'm not familiar with its use. What about it makes you believe it would work? Can you explain a bit?
Would it hold solidly in a V groove unlike wood filler and joint compound?
Griff
Have used it on medx, mdo,mdf, hardwoods, softwoods etc. for years. Sticks great, drys fast and does'nt shrink. Jimmy.
Thanks Jimmy. Have to go out on errands this afternoon and I'll pass by an auto parts store so I plan to pick up a can. Hope to give it a try later today or tomorrow.Griff
Aloha,
My point was to use plastic laminate with wood grain instead of veneer for the cabinet sides. There are many varieties (oak, maple) and colors available. Choose one you like and pick solid wood that you can make match. I'd bond this to the sides and face the front edges with wood.
Trying to fill the grooves and get them sanded down and level might be a big problem. Veneer will telegraph any imperfection underneath.Mistakes are but an opportunity for fresh design!
Use Bondo to fill the grove.
I see someone else mentioned it, it should adhere to the wood. I'd sand out the grove some, doesn't have to be done real well, just want to rough it up some.
I use bondo on wood all the time, don't seem to have any problems with it.
Doug
Edited 8/1/2005 7:18 pm ET by Doug@es
OK, thanks Dan, Doug.
I hadn't thought of wood grained formica in place of laminate. I'll have to go look again at the available styles to see if it would work. In my mind I'm thinking, however, it might look to much like the plastic it is -- and that's not the look I'm after.
I'll try the Bondo on a scrap piece of wood and try laminating on a small piece of veneer to see how it comes out before tackling the cabinets.Griff
Bondo will work, if possible put staples in the V groove ,leave the staple stick out but below the surface. Staples every 1" or 2" centers will keep the bondo from falling out.
The bondo probably won't fall out even without the staples. I have used this method a few times to patch old door and jamb mortices.
mike
Sounds good. Thanks Mike.Griff
Exhibitor got it, use auto body filler to fill those grooves.
You might try an older product called "Durham's Water Putty". It comes as a power that you mix, like concrete, to the desired consistency. It can then be sanded flat and veneered. It might take two applications of what ever you use to fill the grooves. Clamping a board covered with wax paper over the filled grooves will eliminate much of the sanding, a worthy goal!
If you're going to all that work and don't intend to keep the original exterior wood, why not just rip it out and make new cabinets. An alternative would be to put 1/8" plywood over the faces and veneer on the face frame. Cut the veneer with a band saw or a tablesaw (double cut) and glue on with a roller and contact cement, hide glue and a veneer hammer, or (my choice) PVA (titebond), a caul, and loads of clamps, one piece at a time.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Limitations on my working ability have been laid down as law by the DW who doesn't want the kitchen rendered inoperable while the remodel is ongoing. She knows me that my best plans for getting something done never work out as scheduled and delay becomes my middle name.
So, ripping out the cabinets is an option, but since they are not stock units, they cannot easily be replaced. As it is, I am building cabinets that sort of match them for the opposite side of the kitchen. Same design and finish intended, just shorter width for appliance storage, keeping the cookbooks, the TV, small prep jobs, etc. So, I already have my hands full of constructing cabinets.
Griff
Ever hear of HAND sanding and making a wood scraper to fit that groove?? ..
Sort of funnin' ya' but said it was from the 1950's or so.. Sit down on the floor and sand away! See if you can get to a good surface... You said 1950's I think so probably solid wood OR thick Veneer??
Just me...
EDIT! I remembers the 1950's! They had Driveins' and I was so happy!
Edited 8/3/2005 2:05 pm ET by Will George
Hi Will:
Not sure what you mean exactly with your statement:
Ever hear of HAND sanding and making a wood scraper to fit that groove?? ..
I'm not trying to clean out the groove - I'm trying to fill it in so that it doesn't telegraph through a veneer surface I want to apply. I intend, if I use a filler (as opposed to covering the surface entirely) to sand the filler smooth before applying the veneer.
My comment about the 1950's was addressed to the "look". The house and, I presume, the cabinets were built in 1970. But, they remind me of the basement in the house I grew up in in the 1950's - my father finished it himself with 1 x 6 T&G knotty pine boards that also had some decorative molding done on one side of the facing surface. That and 12" linoleum squares on the floor and a suspended ceiling with fluorescent lights and linoleum topped cabinets around the room. Lot of work, all done well, but sooo dated by today's standards.
BTW, if you want a lingering retrospective look at life in the '50's (and a few more years), go here:
http://www.wilk4.com/humor/humorm364.htm
True, all true.
Griff
Aloha,
I replied to you before about using formica for the sides of your cabinets, just happened to remember a product that I used to use. It is a plywood sheet commonly called 'door skin'. As I recall, it is about 1/8" thick with a face veneer and comes in sheets approximately 3' wide x 7' long. I've only used maple and red oak but it may be available in other species. I was able to get it at my local lumber yard but if you have any door manufacturers in your area you might check with them.
Neat sounding idea. Thanks Dan. Never heard of it before, but I'll ask around in case the need to use it arises. Would be good to use over plain A-C or A-D plywood in a basement work area to dress up its appearance.
But I went out and bought a small can of auto body filler and tried that in one area of the cabinets. Once it's cured, I'll try sanding it down and see how well it turns out. Putting it on went pretty easy and it seems to be holding.Griff
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