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I need advice on techniques used to surface long boards. I am starting a strip built kayak and need to surface 20′ long roughsawn western red cedar 4/4 boards before ripping them into 3/4″ x 3/16″ strips. The roughsawn boards are very straight and flat now. I have an Inca jointer/planer.
If the boards were 4′ long instead of 20′, I would use the jointer to flatten the face and one edge. Since the boards are straight and flat, do I need to use the jointer on the face or can I go staight to the planer?
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Chris-
The reason to surface on a jointer first is that if the boards are cupped, and you put them through the planer, the pressure rollers will "de-cup" the board while it is going through and it will "re-cup" when it gets out the other side.
If the boards are relatively flat, and especially since you are planning on ripping into 3/16 widths, I think you will be safe skipping the surfacing on the jointer.
If however, the boards are cupped enough to interfere with getting consistently ripped strips, then you need to flatten them out first.
Good luck. It sounds like a really cool project. Please post some pictures when you're done.
Peace.
-Rob
*As a rule a jointer will surface a board twice its total bed length. If the boards are flat already than I would surface them in the planner. Make one lite pass on each side so you can take another quick look to see if the boards are still straight. Another way is to follow the article in FWW issue 145 page 88. It has some real good ideas for dressing lumber.Scott
*Chris,I am assuming that you will be cold molding the canoe using the WEST method or similar technique. Another suggestion is to go toi WoodenBoat magazine's forum; http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro especially if this is your first strip canoe. This should not be taken as a slight to any one here but, that would be a more appropriate place to ask your question. It will also help you find the appropriate edge jointing tools as well.Dano
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