Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jun 18, 2003 05:14am | #1

   I have made shop doors out of two sheets of exterior grade plywood that sandwiched a 2x4 frame.  The plywood makes the door ridged and it can be dressed up with detail trim to your fancy.  I have also used 1 1/2" expanded polystyrene to insulate the cavity if you plan on heating your shop in the cooler months of the year.  I have also used sliding steel tracks and the good old hinge for the opening hardware.  Hinges are my prefered method as they are not affected by the weather (ie. ice and snow) that way you can fasten one closed unless needed.

   Scott C. Frankland

   "This all could have been prevented if their parents had just used birth control"

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 19, 2003 02:41am | #2

   RAji, Scott has a great idea for a neat door with ply wood faces. I would build the core from 2x construction grade fir. But,I'd use 2x6 for the top, and bottom rails and stiles .Cross rails can be 2x3.

   Build the core on a flat surface and mortise and tenon or half lap the joints.

   Square up the frame and drill and screw with deck screws at all laps or tenons. Cut the face panels to finish size,( less the thickness of two thicknesses of clear pine 'banding.) !/2" thick or better.

   Important:oilbase prime both sides and all edges of the ply before gluing and screwing from both sides,

   While glue drys place sand bags or cinder blocks over this overnight.to prevent any twist.

   The banding can be just glued and clamped in the morning after your coffee. 'When you hinge the doors,use half surface hinges. (3)on each door.

   I'm assuming by swing, you meant the doors swing out one way,but not both ways like on a ginmill.

   If you meant double acting, (Swings both in and out,) get double acting hinges )They can be wound up to automatically close back to center.

   If you want single acting only ask for single acting spring hinges.

    The half surface type, can be screwed to the jamb first, the door stood and shimmed in place ,then temporally screwed in place

   (Later you'll remove a few at a time and drill 1/4"thru holes and attach the thru bolts supplied.

   One other option is in one way-out- the other way in (As in diner kitchens so the waiters don't get clobbered and spill costly food.

   This kind of in-out pairs over lap each other to eliminate the gap in the center. (so patrons can't look in and see your waitress picking up your sandwich's pickle she dropped.

   The doors are hung on opposite sides and stop when they hit their 'shortstops' on the header. (just push plates on the push sides only). Stein. 

   If you use heavy dollys,or forklifts you might go for a couple of kickplates as well.  Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 6/18/2003 7:48:20 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   jabraham | Jun 19, 2003 05:48am | #3

   Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

   I'm a little confused about the banding. I think what you mean is to make the 2x core and the plywood frame the same size, then trim the edge of the whole thing with two layers of 1/2" pine. So you end up only seeing the plywood skins bordered by the pine edging. The double layer seems a bit much, since its only purpose is to cover the edge I would guess.  I also wanted to add some 1x material to the front for decorative purposes so they dont just look like a couple slabs, but then I'll end up with 3-1/4" thick doors. Seems a little thick to me......but then again they would be pretty darn substantial. I like your method of hanging the door with the half hinges. Know a good source for these...or can I get then at the local hardware store? The doors will swing out in the same direction and meet in the middle. I suppose for weather tightness, one door should have a stop along the back edge so the other shuts against it.  The door will have no hardware, save the hinges, since I have an existing 32" steel door I use for entry and exit. They replace a worn out overhead door that I never liked. This way on nice days, I can swing them both open all the way flat against the garage (and they wont cover up my lights like the overhead did)

   Thanks.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 19, 2003 12:56pm | #4

   Raji, That metal or wood strip is called an astragal. The hinges are called half surface template butts. yhey come in sixes  4'-1/2" 5" and 6" And is boxed in one and a half pair boxes. (Plain or ball bearing)

   4-1/2" is usually standard for that size door.

   You didn't mention the thickness of the ply for the face, so I don,t know the thickness of the finished door?

   The existing jamb (if of wood) is probably set up to accomodate a standard 1-3/4" door thickness. If your door will be thicker, you'll have to remove and relocate the door stops.

    If the frame is metal with built in stops, you'll have to 'set back' the faces to allow the new door to fit.

   The banding is to cover the ply's edge (Splinters) and to do any final planing/beveling. One layer on each side, Top and bottom is optional

   Allow 3/8" for clearance : 1/8" at the center, and 1/8"each side.    

   You can apply any moulding to dress up the door,but keep it clear of the jamb to prevent pinching. Stein. 

    Architectual hardwear or builders supply carry Stanley,Hager, Mc Kinney and imported hinges .

   Skip any made in china, Japan is pretty good and cheaper.  Use longer screws on jamb if it's wood.

2. 
   JOSEPH2238 | Jun 20, 2003 07:02pm | #5

   Rajikhalaf,

   Here is a picture of some doors I recently made. I used 2x4s,  7/16 OSB and 4 1/2 wood screws. The 2xs are simply butt glued and screwed to each other. I then glued and screwed the OSB to the back side.  The only problem I had was that I tried to have 1/16" gap in the center. The doors would hit as they closed. I had to cut a 5 degree angle on the edge where they meet. I still have the 1/16 gap.

   Joe Phillips

   Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!

   Edited 6/25/2003 12:34:17 PM ET by Joe the Plastics Man