I’m making my first table (it’s a narrow table for behind the couch – 60” L x 14” W x 34” H). Using mortise and tenon for the bottom of the frame and three way miter with splines for the top of the frame. First time using those joints too. I saw another forum thread that suggested glueing up a table frame in stages, starting with the ends. That seems attractive to me because, like the poster said, it slows down the process and gives me more time to make sure it’s all right. Scrambling to glueup all those joints at once seems daunting. My question and fear arises though from how it’s all going to fit together after glueing up the joints individually. I worry each joint individually will look square and be really close, but when I go to do the final glueup it’s not going to be perfectly square and it won’t glue up right. So, what’s your experience and recommendation for this?
(A) novice should glueup table frame joint by joint in stages to slow down the process
(B) novice should glueup table frame all at once, to ensure final fit
Thanks!
Replies
Post an image? You mention "frame" by this do you mean apron? Also, you don't mention legs.
Photos would help, but in general, I would suggest that you decide what components you are going to glue up and do a dry run including the clamps. Have your workspace clear, collect all of the pieces to be glued, have your clamps ready, have your glue ready (but, don't use it this time). Then practice putting it together and applying clamps. Then check diagonal measurements to make sure it's square. Timing all of this might be a good idea to make sure you are able to do it within the glue working time.
Glue up the ends first, but assemble the whole frame so you know the alignment is good. When the ends are set up take it apart and glue the long parts.
Seconded. I do this sometimes, especially for really big things where small errors will compound over longer lengths. Just be sure not to let squeezeout fix joints that were supposed to be left loose!
What MJ said. I would add two things: at least gently clamp the rest of the frame when assembling after getting the ends together, to close up the joints and make sure the ends dry exactly right for the final glue-up. Also, be careful that no squeeze out makes it impossible to dis-assemble the frame for the second glue-up.
I often use long-set epoxy for complicated glue-ups, as it has a long open time, and doesn't swell the joints, even acts as a lubricant if you need to momentarily dis-assemble a joint. If you do use it, be sure to leave the clamps on at least overnight; it can seem to be set up but still able to move under force for a long time! I could tell a story...
Thanks for the replies. Gives me some good direction. Here’s a pic of a part of the table (you can imagine the rest). So yeah legs included. Bottom support members but no shelf.
The photo changes the discussion. This is not a standard table glue up. Usually you do the two ends (mortise and tenon), let them dry in clamps, then join the ends for a final glue-up. But here you have legs mitered into rails, and it looks as if the top is a panel floating in a frame of square-profile rails. It's very modern and jazzy looking, but I wouldn't be able to comment on how to actually make it!
Great question. I'll respond specifically to your emphasis on the fear of it not all coming out square. I started with that exact fear. What I learned is that it all comes down to how precisely you measure and cut each individual component, and how skilled you become at cutting each individual joint---primarily mortise/tenon and dovetails (and miters if you're going to use them). This simply takes practice, practice, and mo' practice. I have spent countless hours practicing cutting mortises, tenons and dovetail joints (mostly on scrap pieces), and it pays off in spades. I remember with my earlier projects, being simply amazed when all the diverse parts of a project came together perfectly square, even with pretty complicated joinery such as in Tim Rousseau's pedestal dining table. Now, I pretty much take for granted that if the dimension of each component is precise, and each joint is well-crafted, it will all come together.
And yes, it's smart and less stressful to do complicated glue-ups in stages. But that will have little to do with how square it all comes out.
Finally, I would highly recommend the FW video workshops as great learning tools. Many of them have individual episodes walking you through the glue-up stage.
I'd go with (B). Consider making and using non-slip clamping cauls (good for miters), use Titebond Extend (15 ~ 20 minutes of open time), and practice the dry glue up assembly and clamping until you get it down pat.
For the actual glue application, consider pouring the glue into glue bowls and use small paddle applicators. Have a glue bowl on each end of the bench to expedite the process. Consider prefinishing the parts so you can quickly wipe off the squeeze-out and check the joint alignment.
Leave the top mitered joints slightly loose until you can get the bottom strechers in and then go back and tighten the cauls. Good chance you can get it down to 15 minutes or less.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled