Replies

1. 
   furnituremaker | Jul 06, 2007 06:14am | #1

   Hi Larry,

   I make the Thorsen Dining Table just as you mention - without the “square box” on top of the legs. I have uploaded a plan view drawing of my Thorsen Table (without leaves shown). With 11 ¾” overhang I have no problems with support.

   As you can see from the drawing there is not a lot of room for the expansion slides between the legs – I believe the Greenes and the Halls used the “square box” at the top so they could remove the upper portion of the center legs and have space for more beams on the slide mechanism.

   If you plan on making the table expand, I would recommend reading the article on extension tables from FWW issue #65 (by Jeremiah de Rham). I use the “fender washer” method described  in de Rham’s article for my table.

    

   On the solid edging : Because of the shape of the top, and solid wood’s expansion and contraction problems, I use a veneered core for the table top.   The top in  this case has applied edging all the way around - the core is captured with no place to move. I use a spline cut into small segments to attach the solid edging. I have attached an image of my Gamble Table in process that illustrates the segmented splines.

    

   I hope this helps – let me know if you have any other questions.

    

   Darrell

   
1. 
   LPortaro | Jul 06, 2007 02:17pm | #2

   Darrell,
   Thanks for the detailed reply. The attachments are great. A few more questions...1) What core material would you recommend for a table top this size.2) What thickness veneer would you recommend (I would like to use mahogany). This table will see a lot of homework and crafts as well as meals...3) I do not have much experience with veneering, do I have to veneer the underside for stability? Can I use different wood if so?Thanks again, Larry

1. 
   furnituremaker | Jul 06, 2007 04:47pm | #3

   Larry,

   For the core material  I use a 1” thick product we call jaycore - it’s a plywood with a 1/16” layer of MDF on the faces. This stuff is the best of both worlds. It has the flatness of MDF and the strength and lightness (my aching back doesn’t like MDF) of ply. I get jaycore at Edensaw Woods in Kent WA – not sure of its availability elsewhere. Armorcore is a similar product that you may be able to locate

    In any case when choosing your core material be sure to stand it up on edge and sight down both the length and width for crown. You want to make sure your cores have as little crown as possible. All cores have a crown to some degree. Designate the crown side as the top (face) – you don’t want spilled liquid to pool up in the middle of the top.

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   I like to use 1/16th “ African mahogany veneer on my table tops. The thicker veneer allows for a some leveling of the leaves if they mis-align – also if you are not accustomed to applying curved solids to a core you may have a little problem getting them absolutely level with the core (try to error on the high side) – the thicker veneer will allow for a bit of leveling here as well.

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   For stability, I use the same thickness and species of veneer for top and bottom of the cores. I sort out the best stuff for the tops – if I have any defects or just plain ugly veneers I set them aside for the underside.

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   Let me know how the projects progresses and if you have any questions along the way.

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   Darrell

1. 
   LPortaro | Jul 06, 2007 07:03pm | #4

   Darrell,

   Thanks again. You have really helped me out. I will let you know how things are going. I plan on making a full scale model out of cardboard first (don't trust my design enough for wood yet...). I'll try to post a few pics when it's together for comments.

   Regards, Larry

2. 
   LPortaro | Nov 21, 2010 01:54pm | #5

   Table Design

   Darrell,

   Wanted to follow up on a design you helped me with some time back. Thankfully I do not have to make a living from my work since it takes me so long to complete a big piece. I went with a solid top, so no edge banding and had to add some supports to tie the top down but allow for movement. I added the foot detail from your book but went with an inlay rather than add the cloud detail. All in all I am very happy with how it turned out.

   Thanks again for you help, Larry