Replies

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Sep 21, 2000 08:11am | #1

   *
   Let's see. Are we talking solid timber top attached to those legs? If not, you're maybe ok., but if you have solid timber, I think this might cause you more problems than you want. However, my statement has to be balanced against the table size and the use it's to be put to, for coffee tables legs are available off the shelf that will screw in place much as you describe, and might work reasonably well in something like quarter sawn material. For a dining table I suspect you need much more support, but again, tubular legs can be purchased that can be screwed directly to the underside of the top. They have big plates, and the legs are probably best used- as before, with man made board table tops.

   You might consider a yoke style rail structure, which is largely out of sight, or insetting the rail/leg structure from the edge of the top which makes the rail hard to see, unless you bend down low. With solid timber, one essential purpose of the rails is to hold the top flat, as well as providing structural integrity to the leg framework. Why not get back with more detail. Sliante.

1. 
   A._Gilron | Sep 22, 2000 11:41am | #2

   *The table top is 156 by 89 cm and 2.8 cm thick. It is irregularly shaped(amoeba like), and it is made out of standard off the shelf beech butcher block(which is 20 cm by 3.5 cm lengths edge joined into a platter. The legs are out of the same material, but are 8 cm tubes. A.

1. 
   Sergio_Piery_II | Sep 22, 2000 07:05pm | #3

   *The butcher block nature of the top should lessen your stability concerns. How long are the legs? If they are for a cocktail table, i.e., 40-42cm, you could use the screw plate as a person would have to be laying on the floor to see them. But, if the table is high or the legs are close to the edge, you might consider using knock-down type threaded inserts. I would not use the brass as they can be stripped out to easily. Use the zinc plated steel inserts, and a metal dowel in the leg that is lag on one end and bolt on the other (obvious?). If properly installed they should snug up to be fairly sturdy. Sliante, your expertise and input would be welcome to affirm or counter my thoughts.Good luck, Sergio.

1. 
   Sgian_Dubh | Sep 23, 2000 02:15pm | #4

   *Hey, what's with the metric you guys? Is that just for my benefit because you know I don't use Imperial much?It's quite a big top. Beech is not the most stable of timbers. It also expands and contracts a lot, and in that width (890mm) I'd allow for 18 mm of expansion and contraction over the four seasons, i.e., 9 mm shrinkage, and 9 mm expansion. It may not move this much in use, but I'd allow for it. The 'butcher block' you describe (which incidentally is a misnomer) will be of random grain orientation, so as Sergio mentioned the warping will be rather ameliorated. It will probably end up with a somewhat washboard look. Still, it seems rather long and wide to be unsupported and unrestrained. I don't see a problem with attaching the legs securely, for similar (but mostly metal) legs are readily available from firms like Doug Mockett. At the very least I'd want to include cross grain bearers heavily slot screwed to the underside, but I'd prefer to make some kind of framework, which wouldn't necessarily need to be attached to the legs. In circumstances like this where the client really wants you to provide something that is counter to all good woodworking practise I tell them that this is the case, and I modify my contract to build (which guarantees my work) to clearly state that the construction is i client specified, might fail, that they are aware of this, and that your guarantee excludes this part of the work. (Something like that anyway.) I make them read and sign this clause. This shifts the onus of responsibility over to the client, and it's remarkable just how quickly their thinking usually becomes clearer once they see this clause! Sliante.