I currently have the PC7538 3 1/4 plunge router mounted in the Freud collapsable router table. I have found that it is very challenging to make height adjustments with any accuracy because of the spring rate in the plunge mechanisim combined with the weight of the router. My router table tends to lift up when I’m making adjustments although it is clamped to my bench.
Is there a fixed base which can be used with this router so that I don’t have to fight the plunge springs? After reading several reviews, there isn’t much feedback on my PC router. Should I have gone with a Bosch 1619 or Milwaukee 5620? Would the 1619 or the 5620 be easier to adjust the hieght from above the table? What is the best solution to make easier height adjustments in my router table? Replace the router with one of the above? Replace the plunge base with a fixed base, if available? Buy a lift mechanisim? Shop space is a premium, that is why I bought the folding router table, so I would probably still remove the router and put away the table when not in use. My woodworking is a hobby, not a profession (obviously).
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Replies
evanover,
I use a simple knob adjustment on my DeWalt. I notice Porter Cable makes a similar adjuster for your router... http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=3399&p=3828
Heres one solution , although it might not work with your router. Basicly what Mr Nixon did was remove the springs from the router and adapted a small cordless screw driver to the elevation Screw. So the router can be elevated or lowered with a remote switch..I haven't done this mod.in a router table but have done it to my Makita router that is mounted horizonitally( Because it is Horiz. i had to leave the springs in making it harder on the cordless screw driver).Used in a router table ( vertically)it offers a loy of pluses , as you will see at Nixon"s website.
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/ Chris
E,
The suggestion to remove the springs in the router's plunge mechanism is one option, as only gravity then holds the router down, not the plunge spring(s) as well. But your difficulty would seem to be that your router offers no inbuilt or user-friendly method to wind it up and down with any degree of accurate control.....?
Having in the past tried three different routers in my (Veritas) router table, I understand your difficulty. In the end, I bought a plunge router (an Australian Triton) that can be used freehand but which also has a number of specific design elements to suit it for use in a router table.
* The collet can be wound above the table, for easy bit changing, which also prevents it being inadvertently switched on. The collet is also self locking at bit-changing height, for one-handed tightening and loosening of the collet.
* The plunge spring is easily removed and replaced without any tools
* One plunge handle is a rotating knob that has a catch which (dis)engages a gear, allowing rapid and controlled winding of the router up and down with just one hand. (When the router is used freehand, this winding mechanism is disengaged and the router plunges as any other).
* There is in addition a fine adjustment turret, allowing easy and accurate 0.1mm height adjustments, once the router & bit are wound up to the approximate height required.
In short, if you can afford it, I suggest you buy a Triton or similar machine with table-friendly features and save the other machine for freehand work. It will save you hours of time and improve your router-table experience greatly. If you leave the table router permanently mounted (as you have another router now for freehand work) this too will save a lot of time and effort.
Routers have one of the same unfortunate attributes that clamps have - you can never have enough and there is always one more with desirable features none of your existing ones have. :-)
Lataxe
Edited 12/6/2006 6:04 pm ET by Lataxe
Thanks for teh feedback guys. Looks like I'll remove the springs for now and add another router to the stable as funds permit.
Thanks again, Erik-
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