Replies

1. 
   watkinsjd | Jun 21, 2003 04:42pm | #1

   Bob,

   Have you checked for any play in the arbor? If you can move the blade by hand you probably have a bad bearing in you arbor.  Is there a noticable noise coming from that area?  If so, take the blade off and run the saw to see if it is still there. That seems to me to be a more likely cause of any blade movement than the belt.

   The link belt is an excellent way to reduce the vibration though.  It really made a difference on an old Craftsman saw I had.

1. 
   66wood | Jun 21, 2003 05:09pm | #4

   Thanks for the input I'll try what you have suggested and see if it helps. Thanks again, Bob

2. 
   Manchild | Jun 21, 2003 11:18pm | #9

   I used link belts and it seemed to take some of the power to the blade. The saw just seemed a little slower. I also machined my own pulleys by spinning them on the shaft and grinding on them with a dremel tool. The plate where the blade is sandwiched against can be surfaced also. I used a router clamped above it and carefully moved over. I also have a Forrest blade in it which runs pretty true. These steps brought the saw up to a higher level I think.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 21, 2003 11:21pm | #10

   First time I've heard of anyone losing power after converting to the link belt.  Strange.  My saw runs much quieter and much more smoothly with the LB.  Any energy that's not going toward vibration (and therefore noise) should be finding its way to the saw blade.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   Manchild | Jun 22, 2003 03:43am | #11

   The only reason it was noticeable and of concern was because the saw was already underpowered. It's a 9" delta contractors saw with a 1 hp. motor. I should change out the motor but it's only a backup saw. I think the segmented belts have a little more friction on the pulleys because they are softer than v-belts. I looked at the saw and I have a v-belt that has teeth on the inside to help it flex around the pulleys. Maybe this helps with flat spots in the belt when it sits for a while too.

2. 
   jvs | Jun 21, 2003 04:47pm | #2

   It's worth a try; the link belts are cheap.  The next shot at a fix would be machined wheels, but unless the vibration is present in operation or is *really* bad on shutdown (everyone will have their own standards fot that), I would be tempted to stop with the belt.

   /jvs

1. 
   66wood | Jun 21, 2003 05:05pm | #3

   Thanks for the info. I think I will try the belt like you said. I don't have the problem while the saw is running, only when it has just about wound down to a stop.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 21, 2003 06:40pm | #7

   I guess my question would be, why worry about it? On longer belts, this is a common occurence and doesn't hurt anything. A segmented belt will eliminate it though.

3. 
   ron61 | Jun 21, 2003 05:15pm | #5

   No

   its not the belt.

   Its the blade or something with the arbor where the blade mounts- try another blade first.

4. 
   forestgirl | Jun 21, 2003 06:02pm | #6

   Bob, I had exactly the same problem with my old Jet contractor's saw, put a link belt on (didn't even change out the pulleys), problem solved.  You won't believe how much better your saw will run with the link belt.

   Not to say there couldn't be another problem, but try the belt first. 

   PS:  "follow directions" -- the link belts have a direction, indicated with arrows.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

5. 
   bill_1010 | Jun 21, 2003 09:27pm | #8

   you can buy kits that have the link belt and machined pulleys for your Contractor saw.  Probably the best upgrade for the price.

   Solid belts will develop memory.  So each time you let the belt sit it will conform to the pulleys. Over time they will get stiff and each time it hits the area that has been conformed to the pulley it creates some vibration and play. Plus they do stretch some also causing some tension problems.