Is there a high quality combination 10″ blade that will leave a flat top kerf? Thick or thin kerf are both OK. Thank you.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I'm not absolutely sure, but what makes a combination blade, in part, is a mix of beveled and flat (raker) teeth. If you have a blade with all flat teeth, this is usually defined as a rip blade. If you need a flat bottom cut, I think, it is best to just switch to a rip blade and then switch back when your done.
I use a stock Forrest blade made specifically for splines - 1/8" kerf, flat bottom. I got mine from a Woodcraft store.
On that Forrest blade, does the actual kerf come out at 1/8, or is it slightly
oversize? I have a similar blade from Ridge, but the actual kerf is closer
to 0.142, in spite of the teeth being accurately 0.125. Might you have the
Forrest part number?
They make 3 different sizes. Here's a list of them on Slivermills website. Look for "#1" (grind) under TS column.
https://www.sliversmill.com/category_41_Blades_for_Finger_Joints_Square_Cut_Box_Joints_Rabbets_Groo.html
Image of Forrest blade mentioned earlier
Will check later this a.m. and let you know
How about a standard rip blade?
If you have an older ATB blade in need of sharpening, you can just get it reground to a flat grind. Cheapest approach.
What are you trying to do?
I use a rip blade for plowing narrow grooves.
General/combination blade is my preference for general woodworking, but I often like to nibble away small dados without having to change blades.
For that task, another safer way to fit a dado is remove material from the material going into it rather than trying to widen the dado. This doesn't always work with plywood, but your dados really should fit perfectly off the saw with careful proper set up and running test pieces. There are nifty little dado set up gauges which I've never used you might look into.
But, regardless, dados by definition are cross grain so can't really use a flat top blade, you're best choice is a high tooth count crosscut.
If needed you can clean up the dado bottom with a router plane. If you don't have a router plane, get one ;-)
My understanding is that it entails a compromise. You basically have 3 main variables to manipulate: tooth count, rake angle, and tooth shape. No accident that across brands these factors are broadly similar among blades for a given application.
If you take the top bevels away, you’re likely to sacrifice crosscut performance. At which point you are left with a not-versatile blade. Sure you can cut a speed tenon with it, but you will want to take it off to do many/most crosscuts (I predict).
Having a flat-top blade for joinery is super useful, but the more work I do and the more my expectations of myself rise, the more I find myself sucking it up and changing blades to get the best results I can.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled