Replies

1. 
   Turbo | Oct 14, 2006 07:23pm | #1

   Having read reviews over the years of various measuring devices, they add precision for alignment, etc. I haven't read the latest reviews on the one you mentioned. What I usually do is use a high end try square for blade alignment at 90 degrees, 45 degrees, etc., whatever angle I'm cutting. I do this twice for the forward (anterior) and aft (posterior) position of the blade, while aligning the blade.
   I then use a measuring tape to align the fence with the edge of the grove for the mitre gauge. I do this again on the fence forward and aft position. I use my palm to bump the end of the fence into place if needed. Modern quality fences and cabinet tablesaws (TSs) don't have to be realigned very often. Older fences/TSs I realign each time. If I have a lot of repetitive work to do on a contractor type of TS, I will use a C-clamp on the fence's end to insure it stays where it is supposed to stay. If I am using an older blade that has been resharpened a number of times, or it had been mishandled by someone, I'll align the blade only to the fence, forward and aft. This is a rare occurrence.
   If you have a high end TS, you may want to invest in an alignment device. Precision and compulsivity are good when needed. I built a high end router table many years ago, being able to align it to 3/1000 of an inch by a device similar to the one you described. Most of the time since then, I've left this type of precision for the machinists. Best of luck!

2. 
   mufti | Oct 14, 2006 07:37pm | #2

                If you can bear to browse back to my post re alignment of blades on radial arm saws, message 31260.5, August 18 will I think give you a no-cost way of getting an exact alignment.

3. 
   hammer1 | Oct 15, 2006 04:05am | #3

   All you need is the ability to look at a measuring device and pick the same mark, you don't even have to know what the mark stands for. Actually, you can just make a mark on a stick. I use a straight edge against the blade since it makes any discrepancy show more over the distance. If you don't have a straight edge, simply measuring to the same carbide tip, front and rear, is fine.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
4. 
   BobMc | Oct 15, 2006 09:39pm | #4

   I have the TS-Aligner Jr.  I use it frequently and like it.  I could probably set up the saw by other means, but the aligner lets me get it done accurately and quickly.  I used it to set the miter slots parallel to the blade, and then to set the fence parallel to the slot.  These adjustments are infrequent.  However, I use it whenever I want to change the angle of the blade for bevel cuts.  In one case I needed a bevel angle of 2.6 degrees, and was able to set it first try with the aligner.  I use it to return the blade to 90 degrees.  I use it with a square to make sure my miter gauge is set to 90 degrees.

   I also used the aligner to setup my jointer tables, set the blades, etc.  When I change the tilt on the bandsaw or drill press, I use the tool to re-establish the table to level (well, actually, perpendicular to the blade or chuck). 

   If you want to see the instructional videos, they're at http://www.ts-aligner.com/videos.htm. 

   These tasks are all doable without the tool, but hey, you can never have too many clamps, but you can have not enough tools.

    

1. 
   waljay | Oct 16, 2006 03:37am | #5

   Sir:  Thank you very much for your reply.  Now all I need to do is locate one!  I know my table saw blade was not in alignment even before I had to disassemble the saw to move it.  Thanks again for your time.

5. 
   peakbagger | Oct 16, 2006 05:31am | #6

   I cut a block of wood to fit snugly in the miter slot, then attach a second block across it to almost reach the blade, shy by about 1/2 in.
   Raise the blade all the way up.
   Put a screw in the end of the cross-piece and adjust it so the screw head just touches the carbide on the tooth at the front. Mark that tooth. Now rotate the carbide you marked to the back and see if the screw just touches it at the back. Adjust the tabletop (or blade/motor carriage on a conractor saw) until it does.

   Cost -- scrap wood and one 6 cent round head screw.

   Jim

6. 
   EdHarrow | Oct 16, 2006 05:36am | #7

   It's one thing to check, and another to align...  Is this a contractors' saw, or a cabinet saw?  I used the PALS alighment gizmos on my contractors' saw to accomplish the alignment; as for checking there are a variety of effective ways to accomplish that, all (maybe, LOL) noted above.

7. 
   cowtown | Oct 16, 2006 09:42am | #8

   I cannot believe that yer not getting more substantive feedback on this query, given the preponderance of OCD in the population of this site.

   A dial indicator, and a magnetic stand for same, even a plebian imported one will set you back about 30 bucks. That will allow you to set yu to set up yer able saw statically within a couple of thousands of an inch.

   close enuf.

   You mount the dial indicator on the x-cut fence (the one that slides in the rail) and ya, you may have to lift it up a tad so theat the magnetic base doesnt move, scope out the parallelism from the front and the back of the blade when it's set for maximum height. OK

   It ain't ever gonna be perfect, cuase you got slop in the groove, but a couple of thou no problem.

   Blade set up, you gotta set up the fence the same way. If you got a coupl thou out towards the back on the blade, yer fence has to be the same way....

   Next thing is you need a good digital micrometer. Imports cost you less than 30 bucks.

   You set up yer fence indicator for say 3", cut a piece of ply o mcp and then measure it with yer digital caliper. +/-2 0r 3 thousands of an inch and yer ok.

   HAR you say in piratese. I got it beat!!. Har!!! I say, just take all yer tape measures and measure them against the same standard.

   Yer 4" slice of mcp as measured on a calipre may suddenly turn out to be 4 1/32 on yer tape. but the tape end against the fence and see if it dials up precisely 4" on the saw blade.

   I ain't got OCD- I think a good pva glue should be able to hold over a 1/8th inch gap, but dang it really bugs me when a new measureing tape can't come witin a 32 of accuracy.

   Alors, M. Waljay...... You is obviously into Tablesaw alignment, and you is obviously into accuracy. ...

   Ergo, the two essential instruments you need are alas not found within the realm of table saw culture, but rather within that of the millwright. You can, of course purchase any of the plethora of TS alignment apparatii and appurtanances, and then go on to purchase specialized apparati for each and every other tool

   There have been a number of reasonable articles on setting up a TS in the popular press, and they are good, but alas the one thing they do not mention is that a spinning saw blade is substantially different from a a static saw blade, ergo, if yu do all yer due diligence in the static mode, saw blade parallel, fence parallel etc, turn the sucker on, cut a piece at 4.000 inches, it better caliperout at 4". Once that sawblade is spinning, all yer static tests become "really good best guesses", cause as every wood butcher knows, saw blades has dynamic characteristics, not the least of which is dishing. The proof is therefore in the cut. An the only way to measure that is with a caliper.

   You need a dial indicator with a magnetic stand which will not only be ov service for a table saw alignement, but also for a jointer, radial arm saw, drill press, and if you get further down the slippery slope, numerous machinists tools to facilitate alignment of tools.

   And regardless of whether you work with wood, steel, or precious metals, an indicating (? obviously these days digtal) dial indicator is a defacto requirement, and has been for millwrights for a long time too. (hey, why ain't I heard that before??)

   At less than 30 bucks on the import market, an digital dial indicator ain't something that anyone who is serious about how their equipment is set up should be wont to overlook.

   just a thought. ...invest now or pay sooner AND later.....

   Eric