Replies

1. 
   bones | Jul 11, 2004 12:51am | #1

   Did you try talking to sears and see if the original one could be reordered?

1. 
   JHall | Jul 11, 2004 04:55am | #2

   I did ask Sears but they don't make any parts for this model anymore.  In fact they did send me an ancient parts list and it did not even show a blade guard.  I think this saw was made in the year 20 BBG (Before Blade Guards).

2. 
   MBL | Jul 11, 2004 08:52pm | #3

   Friend,

   You could make a simple guard that clamps much like a featherboard for ripping narrow stock. You could use Lexan, or even p.w.

   There are commercial guards that use those materials, you can buy or use as references.

   There are also some guards that have long metal support, adjustable links so that they are in place and clear any material width.

   It's just up to the effort or cost to afford.

   But a simple one, would not be that much of either.

   You can put a splitter in a self-made plate insert, as mentioned in another post, or a featherboard will help keep the work tight against the fence.

   Good luck.

   -mbl-

3. 
   billl6 | Jul 12, 2004 04:07am | #4

   Jack, I recently completed this ceiling mounted blade guard which modifies one I found on the internet and was designed for a Craftsman saw. As you can see, I have modified it a bit and am reasonably happy with it. The ceiling mount is adjustable front to back as I thought I might want to move my Rigid saw back and forth on occasion as I have a pretty tight work space. I may still tweak the L to R guard adjustment, but for now it is serving the purpose well. This one replaces a version I made that mounted to the R rear corner of the table from plans in one of the WW Mags. I can't remember exactly where now. I can get this guard aligned with the right side of the blade if necessary, but use pushers a la Steve Latta's article in a recent Fine Woodworking instead of very thin push sticks.

   Original plan: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rodec/woodworking/shop/blade_guard/guard.htm

   my version:Sorry, I'm having trouble getting the pic's posted. Will try again

   Bill

   Edited 7/11/2004 9:09 pm ET by BILLL6

   
   

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   Edited 7/11/2004 9:13 pm ET by BILLL6

   
4. 
   billl6 | Jul 12, 2004 04:36am | #5

   Jack I hope this time I got the Pic's to uploadBill

   
   

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   Edited 7/12/2004 10:08 am ET by BILLL6

   
1. 
   badoyn | Jul 13, 2004 12:20am | #6

   Well done.

   I re-sized the images to help those broadband-deficient people.

   Michael

   
1. 
   billl6 | Jul 13, 2004 02:12am | #7

   Thanks, I haven't yet figured out how to resize images. Any tips?Bill

1. 
   badoyn | Jul 14, 2004 02:07am | #8

   Depends if you have a Mac or PC. I'm primarily on a Mac and use Photoshop to reduce the resolution to 72 dpi and then change the physical dimesions. I then save as jpeg as it does a great job of compressing the files.

   I'm not sure of what's available on the PC but I'm sure there is a freeware or shareware app capable of doing this.

   Michael

1. 
   billl6 | Jul 14, 2004 03:47pm | #9

   Badoyn,

   I'm MAC based too, but don't have Photoshop. I do have a program called Photo Studio which was I think a freebie from Apple. I think it will do the same, but I haven't taken the time to learn it yet. I just looked at the help files and there is an image size command. I'll investigate next time I send Images. I tend to shoot in highest resolution, so this will be a boon for mailing images. Thanks for the info.Bill

2. 
   JHall | Jul 15, 2004 06:26am | #11

   Thanks for the pics.  Unfortunately my TS has to sit immediately below an overhead dropdown stairway to my garage attic and I have to move it every time I want to go upstairs.

1. 
   billl6 | Jul 15, 2004 04:00pm | #13

   Jack, You might be able to use the design even so as the mounting arm slides out of the ceiling mount after removing the retainer bolt through the ceiling mount. then all you would need is about eight inches of clearance behind the lowered staircase. It would depend on whether you could get a solid mount to the pull down staircase. Just a thought.Bill

1. 
   Jeff | Jul 15, 2004 10:24pm | #14

   My Guard is ceiling mounted.

   I used some of that metal bracket material with the holes in it.

   A couple of cotter pins and I can adjust it if I move the table saw to a different spot.

   Jeff

2. 
   JHall | Jul 17, 2004 05:54pm | #15

   Appreciate the idea.  Will give it another look and see if there is a way to work around the staircase problem.

1. 
   JoeWood | Jul 17, 2004 08:57pm | #16

   I have 12' ceilings. Anyone know of a mounting system that'll work for me ? You can see in this pic that those flouresent lights might be in the way, but I could move em if needs be. I almost never rip sheet goods, so maybe there's a good side-mount system I could check out ?

   
2. 
   billl6 | Jul 19, 2004 03:53am | #17

   http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml

   this overhead guard is mounted from what appears in the pics to be a high ceiling. You might want to check out the sitelBill

3. 
   jako17 | Jul 19, 2004 04:20am | #18

   I have found the Excaliber over arm ,side mount guard to be good.Just be aware that this style of guard torques the extension table unless you beef up the floor / post connection.

5. 
   DougF | Jul 14, 2004 04:24pm | #10

   Jack,

   I recently built and installed the saw blade guard with dust port depicted on http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml.

   The total cost for the parts was around $60.  The design works very well and the dust port is a godsend since zero tolerance throat plates kick out a lot of dust.  If you decide to build this unit, I found I had to downsize the guard slightly to have enough material from a piece of 1' x 2' lexan.  Even if you aren't using a DC to your table saw, I would still install the port and cap it for when you have a DC.  If you decide to build this unit, be sure and use SS screws and use the right size tap: lexan is hard material.   

   Building the guard assembly took about 7 or 8 hours and was a nice change of pace from working with wood. 

   Doug

     

1. 
   JHall | Jul 15, 2004 06:28am | #12

   Read the article.  Very interesting. Might take a crack at something similar.