Replies

1. 
   Knotscott | Sep 16, 2006 05:36am | #1

   Great blades are an asset regardless of what level you're at, and they're actually cheaper in the long run b/c they perform better, stay sharp longer, and withstand more resharpenings. Give yourself a fighting chance and don't cheap out. Your saw will benefit from a good quality thin kerf blade...it'll tax your motor alot less and you'll get great cuts if you stick with high quality. The Freud glue line ripper you mentioned is the LM74 30T. It's a nice blade but is a full kerf that'll push your motor a bit, plus it's really only designed for woods up to 1" thick.

   If I were looking for two good blades that wouldn't break the bank, I'd start with a 24T thin kerf FTG ripping blade for really heavy stock. You can't beat the bargain currently being offered by Leitz distributor Mike Jackson on Woodnet (XCESSTOOLING). German made, high quality ripper that's identical to the $46 Schumacher & Sohn blade that's also made by Leitz....$11 plus ~ $7 s/h....big savings here that you can apply to a better main blade.

   I love my Forrest WWII and the Ridge Carbide TS2000 40T general purpose blades...they're outstanding on a wide range of cuts in a wide range of materials, but they tend to run $80 and up. If that price doesn't deter you, I'd go with the TS 2000 TK through Holbren.com. Enter "woodnet10" in the promo code and get it for ~ $72 delivered. (now you're up to around $90 for two great blades)
   http://holbren.com/product.php?productid=119&cat=0&page=1

   If that's too rich for your blood, I can heartily recommend the Freud LU88R010 60T TK. Less money and really an outstanding blade too. It's considered a crosscut blade and is not intended replace a rip blade, but the teeth have an aggressive 15 degree hook angle that allow it to rip fairly well in general purpose situations much like the WWII and TS2000 will. Use the 24T ripper on for thicker material and large quantities of material. The LU88 will cut a bit cleaner than the Forrest or Ridge Carbide, and is very respectable in plywood and sheetgoods because of that. I think they could market it as a general purpose blade if they wanted too. It should work great with your saw. It's only about $45 from Amazon too! (now you're at less than $65 for two great blades)

   http://www.epinions.com/content_226312687236

   If that's still more than you want to spend, Holbren also has a great deal on a Tenryu RS25540 40T blade...$25 delivered. His sale prices will end very soon so if you're at all considering one of the Holbren deals, get them this weekend.

   
   

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   Edited 9/16/2006 12:48 pm ET by Knotscott

2. 
   ctsjr | Sep 16, 2006 06:09am | #2

   James

   I also own a Ridgid TS, and I bought a regular kerf Freud Combination blade with the red teflon coating.  The folks at Rockler talked me into a regular kerf and the saw handles it just fine.  In fact, I ripped down a 3"thick plank of white oak into leg blanks for a table I'm making, and the saw and blade performed great.  The blade makes a HUGE difference in the performance of the saw over the stock blade.  I don't remember the model # of the blade, but it shouldn't be hard to find out.  Regular kerf combination blade with the red coating.  Works great, the cuts are smooth and need little, if anything in the way of cleaning up.  Good luck.  Tom

   "Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
1. 
   rrekih | Sep 16, 2006 08:42am | #3

   just wondering if you are running your saw on 110V or 220V?

1. 
   ctsjr | Sep 16, 2006 03:12pm | #4

   110v.  I don't own this house and there are no 220v outlets in the garage.  Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

3. 
   mike_b | Sep 16, 2006 03:33pm | #5

   I've found the 40T Forrest Woodworker II general purpose blade to perform beautifully. It's on my saw 95% of the time. For thick rips, I use the 30T version and it's just as good. I have some experience with Ridge blades, and they perform well also. I think that no matter the type of work you do, a high-quality blade makes all the difference and is well worth the expense. You may want to consider a thin kerf blade for your contractors saw.

4. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2006 05:59pm | #6

   I use the Freuid LU84 combination blade (50-tooth, ATB, 10° hook) for most work, and it does an exceptional job.  The F40 is their competition to the Forrest Woodworker II, but the LU84 holds its own. Definitely get a rip blade.  If you just need somethin' to rip down hardwood, the Diablo 24-tooth rip blade found at Home Depot is inexpensive and works great.  If you reallllly need the "glue-line rip" quality, I think Freud's model is the LM74.

   Someone above mentioned using a high-tooth-count crosscut blade for ripping.  Not a good idea, IMHO.  It'll be harder on the saw, and wear the blade prematurely.  The better quality crosscut blades are not cheap.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   Knotscott | Sep 16, 2006 07:51pm | #7

   FG - I've edited my post to clarify the point about the LU88 being able to rip. It's not intended as a substitute for a rip blade, but it will handle general purpose ripping tasks in average thickness material much like a combo and general purpose blade will. It's really an exceptional blade, and it's tooth geometry deviates a bit from most standard crosscut blades.

   Edited 9/16/2006 2:08 pm ET by Knotscott

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 16, 2006 11:02pm | #8

   Gotcha on the LU88.  I have the 80-tooth LU85 for super-glorious crosscuts, and shudder at the thought of ripping anything with it, LOL.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   Knotscott | Sep 16, 2006 11:40pm | #9

   The LU88 surprised the heck out of me too...I even wrote to Charles M about it. LU85 is one that I haven't had a chance to try yet, but I'm well aware of it and it's loyal following. I did get to try a friend's F810 80T once....oooh boy! ...hard to imagine a cleaner cut is even possible! Those Hi-ATB toofers just go to town. My "superfine" crosscuts come by way of the LU74 or a Leitz Pro 80T, but I almost never use them b/c the LU88 or the WWII handle about 98% of those needs so well. The LU74 does look pretty sitting in my CMS though! :D

   Edited 9/16/2006 4:41 pm ET by Knotscott

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 17, 2006 06:50am | #10

   The F810 is sweet, isn't it?!  It's on my "someday" list -- probably when I start working with really fine veneered ply.  You only want to use the LU85 when you're looking for a truly mirror-like finish on the end grain.  Won't hold glue for sure, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

5. 
   wrudiger | Sep 18, 2006 06:00am | #11

   For my quality cuts I put on the Forrest.  However, when I'm doing lower quality work or cutting questionable material (i.e. used) I have a red Freud - can't quote all the numbers like the passionate Freud users here - that works quite well.

   That said, based on some very positive reviews I just got a gold Ridgid blade for the SCMS to cut a bunch of p.t. fir and I'm very impressed. Good quality at a great price. Check it out!

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 18, 2006 06:42am | #12

   Quoting the numbers isn't just for show -- it's a mechanism to keep all those models straight, LOL.  That "red blade" of yours could be anything from a quick ripping blade to an expensive, high-tooth-count, smooth-shouldered crosscut blade.  Using it for the wrong thing can foster disappointment.

   One of our members awhile back had a theory about those Rigid blades being made by a name company.  Something about the packaging.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   wrudiger | Sep 18, 2006 06:45am | #13

   just teasing...

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 18, 2006 08:00am | #14

   Making fun of all the work it takes to retain info at my age!!  ROFL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

1. 
   wrudiger | Sep 18, 2006 09:26am | #15

   Laughing to keep from crying - I can't remember the names of the 3 Forrest blades I have - and names are easier than numbers - this gettin old thing is interesting LOL.

2. 
   Knotscott | Sep 18, 2006 12:12pm | #16

   "I can't remember the names of the 3 Forrest blades I have"

   Larry, Curly, and Moe works for me! :-D

   Edited 9/18/2006 8:34 am ET by Knotscott

3. 
   rrekih | Sep 20, 2006 06:57am | #17

   I thank everybody for their input.
   More than enough for me to make a choice.
   Now if I could just remember what you all said, something about this age thing and blades not working as well. Or was it about this age thing and memory not working as well.
   Oh well if I can't remember then I won't worry about it.
   J

4. 
   forestgirl | Sep 20, 2006 08:33pm | #18

   "Oh well if I can't remember then I won't worry about it."  Hah!  I use that principle alot these days, LOL!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

5. 
   highfigh | Sep 21, 2006 05:10pm | #19

   What is?
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."