Replies

1. 
   user-6001446 | May 11, 2019 01:10pm | #1

   Hi - I can empathize with your issue. Can you tell us more about your saw and the saw blade(s) you are using when this happens? And, whether this has happened on different wood thicknesses and varieties? And, are you only getting burning with the rip fence and wide cross cuts don't burn, or have you experienced it with wide crosscuts as well as rips? Does it happen with wide rip cuts as well as narrow ones, thick boards as well as thin ones? Without knowing more, aside from rip fence alignment (if you aligned fence to the table's miter slot for its entire length), for what its worth, which is maybe very little!, in my experience from using a Delta 2000 Contractor saw as my only table saw for awhile (lot's of tuning to avoid burning and to stay square), problems could be 1) run out of the blade - check for runout with dial indicator. Burning on both sides sounds like maybe runout.... 2) blade needs sharpening or cleaning (especially if you have burning the blade gets gummed with resin 3) you might get some binding (causing burning) if the table or extensions are way out of flat - check with a 3 or 4 foot precision straight edge and shim extensions or adjust table (major pain on contractor saw). 4) Are you 100% sure the wood binding on the blade guard? or riving knife? Blade guard splitters are notorious for getting out of square and binding. I confess I took mine off and made zero clearance inserts using MJ Jigs. (more below on riving knife) 5) Perhaps also make sure the rip fence is square to the table for its full length. 6) Make sure your insert is flat to the table or you might get slight twist as you hold down through the full cut. The Delta 2000 I mentioned has Biesemeyer fence which is relatively nice, but I still measured to width and then ever so very lightly tapped the back end of the fence (away from blade) otherwise sometimes it would end up binding. I think I have seen experts recommend that you actually want a "thou or two" slack on the back end. One other thought - you said "even on narrow blades" inferring you have swapped. When I got a SawStop, I put my old favorite thin kerf Freud Fusion blade (a necessity for the Delta) on without giving it a thought. It took me a couple cuts (with some binding and burning as I forced the 1/2 inch plywood I was cutting through) to figure out a thin kerf blade is not compatible with a standard thickness riving knife (duh!).

2. 
   mikaol | May 11, 2019 01:21pm | #2

   2 things I consider when I burn wood when cutting.
   (1) Operator malfunction. Meaning how big a hurry am I in? Maybe if I feed the stock slower instead of pushing into the blade the problem might go away.
   (2) How hard is the wood I'm cutting? I bought some Brazilian ebony that came with the warning "will dull cutting edges." Practically had to sharpen saw blade and router bits working on it. The stuff hated sandpaper, too

3. 
   randy2439 | May 11, 2019 06:30pm | #3

   Try kicking out the rear of your fence out by .002 - .005. And check the fence to ensure that it is straight with a straightedge of sufficient length.
   Good luck.

4. 
   Les_Nightingill | May 12, 2019 12:28am | #4

   Make sure there's no pitch buildup on the blade's carbide teeth. And make sure the teeth are sharp.

   If you're ripping thick stock, a 24-tooth ripping blade will give better results (less burn) than a combination blade.