I have a Grizzley1023 table saw and want to improve dust collection. I use an Oneida 3 hp cyclone and have a 4 inch to collection to cabinet and 4 inch to shark guard blade cover. My thought was to increase cabinet to 5 inch to see if that cuts down on the pile of dust in bottom. However I was wondering why many brands of table saws have cabinet dust port on side. It would seem better to put it in front located so dust thrown off blade would be thrown into dust port in front (similar to a miter saw).If I relocate it I would also make inside into a v shape instestead of slant now over to exsisting port. Any thoughts on this??
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I have a 5" to cabinet and 4" to overhead guard. Increasing the cabinet line from 4 to 5" made a noticeable difference.
Better yet 6". I visited a table saw last week that had a 6" outlet, it really did suck!
I have the Shop Fox version of your Griz. I opened up the 4" port to 6" (there is barely room below the door) and it did make a big improvement. I still got some accumulation of chips in the cabinet though. I finally wedged in a piece of 1/4" plywood across the inside of the cabinet, angled down toward the port. That really does it. If you have something more slippery than plywood, so much the better.
I opened to 6" and use a 2 1/2" dedicated Shop vac line to the over-head. You will still get some in the corners but.. a quick opening of the motor cover door and a Shop vac nozzle stuck in every 3-4 days gets it. I am in the shop 6 days a week so if you do only week-end it probably wouldn't require it about every week or two.
Sarge..
My Unisaw with right side 4" outlet and small portable DC had the problem of mounds of dust, starting in the corners, and eventually stopping the slide down the ramp. I eyeballed the size of a piece of laminate that would be steeper, and U-shaped, and clear the movement of everything. I eyeballed it a bit too large, and it cracked as I snaked it in, but I tried it anyway. It works fine, there is still the little mounds in the two lower corners, which never get bigger or smaller, and the only time I have to open the base is when a sliver of wood gets across the outlet.
Thanks for the input I am going to 5 inch only because I have a 10 foot section that came with my cyclone that I didnt use when I hooked it up to 6 inch main. What I am still wondering is if it would be better to move it to the front as the blde rotation would throw dust toward outlet. I just came from the "Wood" show and one of the workshops had the hose come out the front i didnt see what brand it was but the color makes me think it was a jet.
I'm running a 6" line to the right side port on my Unisaw. The 6" line has a 4" branch line running to the overhead blade guard pickup. To reduce the buildup of material in the base of the cabinet I've cut some 2 1/2" diameter holes on the left side of the cabinet just barely above the floor panel in the cabinet. This has greatly reduced the amount of dust and chip buildup inside the cabinet.
The dust pickup from the blade guard is marginal. I'm thinking I've got too large a percentage of he airflow going to the cabinet base.
Thats a good idea I often wondered if more air should get into cabinet as I use zero clearance wherever I can. I have thought about drilling holes in insert maybe even in the bottom of shallow grooves to pull dust in. I have my 4 inch to guard and 4 inch to cabinet branced off 6 inch main seperately to give max flow.
Where did you get the fitting to replace the fitting on your saw, and how did you do it?This interests me.
I removed the plate below the swingout panel, and replaced it with a piece of sheetmetal into which I'd cut an opening for a standard 6" HVAC ductwork round-to-rectangular fitting. The HVAC fitting was fastened to the sheetmetal with pop rivets.
I've attached a view of the inside of the cabinet (couldn't figure out how to add an attachment to an existing post). There is a little building up in the lower corners, but it seldom gets to be more than shown in this picture. It's been weeks since I've done anything to remove the buildup, and the saw is used regularly. Perhaps some intake ports on the front and back of the cabinet would help prevent this buildup, but it's never bothered me enough to make me want to cut any more holes into my saw's cabinet.
Thanks for pictures I was going to use the same fitting (5 inch) only attach it directly to saw. I may wait until money is better and go six inch but that may be awhile as I am out of work. I already have 5 inch hose. Thought since I have the time I would do all this little improvements that I have been contemplating.
I have the 1023, and a 4" opening with a 2hp DC. Does it get 100% nope, but it stays consistent with a minor amount in the bottom (around 3/4" to 1" of chips). I don't sweat it that much. I would only get concerned if it started to build up. I do regular maint every so often and open the cabinet and use air to blow off the trunions and then I scrape the bottom with a stick to get it all. Again, I don't sweat it.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled