I have a Powermatic 64a with a AccuFence. This fence has plastic faces that are held to the fence by five carriage bolts. Here’s my issue. the plastic face bows out .008″ between each of the bolt holes Here’s what I’ve tried so far, shimming behind the face at the bolt locations, running the face through the planer to make sure it’s flat, making sure the bolts are not too tight. and I’ve checked the fence body for flatness. At this point I’m thinking about machining a new face out mdf. Any thoughts or am I being to picky?
Thanks
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You could do new faces out of MDF or laminated MDF, but I believe you can also facejoint the existing faces flat, assuming the originals are UHMW plastic, then plane the opposite face and see if that gives flat new surfaces from the old material.
Hope this post doesn't draw the dicussion too far from the original topic, but....
I have a PM66 w/ Accufence, the faces of which are laminated plywood with a tee molding applied to the upper edge and ends. The most used face is showing some wear, and I will probably swap them soon. This should be easy enough, but I wonder about future replacement, thus the similarity with the original post.
The 1/4 - 20 carriage bolt heads are held captive in the back side of the face in a tee slot, the "leg" of which has to be exactly 1/4, in order to engage the square shoulders of the carriage bolts, the "tee" of which has to be of sufficient height and width to accomodate the truss head of the carriage bolts (I don't recall the dimensions)....
So: anyone know where one might find a router bit that will cut this slot? The keyhole bit I have doesn't come close, and a quick look through various catalogs doesn't show the requisite configuration either.
Alternatively, how about a technique with multiple bits to achieve the same end? I can't come up with one.
Seems to me that this problem has to be solved to fabricate replacement faces.
When you ran the material through the planer, all you did was make sure that the front and back surfaces were perfectly parallel.
You need to run the face across a jointer, using proper technique. This will flatten the face -- which is what you need.
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