Replies

1. 
   galenajoe | Nov 30, 2005 06:19pm | #1

   I have a 50" Vega fence. It gets in the way sometimes in my small shop but it sure is nice to have when I need it.

            Joe

1. 
   scott57 | Nov 30, 2005 07:47pm | #2

   I've got a pretty small shop too and was wondering if the extra space it takes up will be worth it.  I could see the extra lenght coming in handy too.

   Thanks

   Scott

    

1. 
   BG | Nov 30, 2005 09:24pm | #3

   Scott57,
   Don't forget there is the half-loaf solution too.... Some have moved the rails 10" to the right giving you a 40" space.
   This eliminates the capacity of cutting with the fense on the left side of the saw, but, then you can always change it back.

1. 
   scott57 | Nov 30, 2005 10:32pm | #4

   That is a good thought.  I did look at that, but with the way the front and rear rails are made, there is an indention cut into the rail so they won't interfere with the miter slots.  If I move the rails over, they will be flush with the top of the saw and I don't have any clearance to slide something info the miter slot.

   Thanks

   Scott

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Dec 01, 2005 02:02am | #5

   You might do better to invest the money in a rail-guided circular saw system.   The 50" rails would allow you to cut full sheets of plywood.   However, I find that handling a full sheet is quite a wrestling match.  Instead, I'd rather have the sheet stationary, and run the saw past it.  It is less taxing on me, and is actually more accurate.  Guided-saw systems can do a good job of those first cuts as you start to break down a full sheet.    Festool and EZ guide are two well-known examples, but there are many out there.  You can even build your own.

   Another advantage of most guided-saw systems is that they can be easily stored, which is not the case of 50" rails on your table saw.  

1. 
   scott57 | Dec 01, 2005 04:38pm | #6

   good idea.  thanks for the replys.

   Scott

2. 
   cowtown | Dec 02, 2005 12:16pm | #7

   Jamie was cogitatin out loud......

   You might do better to invest the money in a rail-guided circular saw system.   The 50" rails would allow you to cut full sheets of plywood.   However, I find that handling a full sheet is quite a wrestling match.  Instead, I'd rather have the sheet stationary, and run the saw past it.  It is less taxing on me, and is actually more accurate.  Guided-saw systems can do a good job of those first cuts as you start to break down a full sheet.    Festool and EZ guide are two well-known examples, but there are many out there.  You can even build your own.

   Another advantage of most guided-saw systems is that they can be easily stored, which is not the case of 50" rails on your table saw.  

   **********************************************

   One aspect that Jamie overlooks apparently is that when you have a 50" fixed rail system on yer TS , you can postion it so that it is only 35, 40 ,or 45" to the left of the saw blade. whatever yer heart or space desires or dictates. It is, once set up with yer saw blade, permanently stored, and not in yer way, cause if you ain't envisioned cutting cabinet backs up to that limit, yer not very far-sighted. Oh, guided saw systems are nice, I got a 10' guided system for slitting laminate, and everytime I have to use it I have to get it down , find space for it and the laminate and set it up.

    

   OTOH, a 50" rail guided system would have to have a 1/2" diameter saw blade to allow it to cut 49" MCP panels, such a simply ludicrous calculation that methinks he might have meant a 50" free cutting spec, and if you even thought of using a 7 1/4" skill saw in such an endeavour (ever checked the side to side blade play on those suckers), you'd still be talking more than 58", close enuf to call it 5', and cause you need at least 8' either side of it, you got to use a minimum 5x16 (80 sq ft) of wall space, but if you set it up for 8' sheet material, and end up encountering 10, 12 or even 14'material, you is gonna be flumoxed and need to re-organize the shop to accomodate it. Moreover, you got a vertical surface, which to be sure takes up less of a floor foot print, but can hardly double as a storage space or assembly table (which yer gonna need anyway eh?).

    

    

   That compared to a TS experience, where I just set the fence to what I want, and cut the damn sheet.  And it don't matter if it's 8, 10, 12' length sheet stock or evern 14 oe 16' solid stock. The clearances are there .

   my 50" TS rails is easily stored, they simply don't move, ergo, they is always stored. yet ready to go; moreover, cause it ain't been disturbed, it doesn't need more than periodic checking to ensure calibration. Just ask anyone with a RAS who has sent it out to a job site to comment on accuracy when it comes back.

   I find the concept of "storing" guided rail stuff counterprductive  to my way of thinking and not anywhere near comparable to having a set up system ready to go in a second such as a table saw is want to do. OTOH, slicing 5x12 sheets of laminate, I'll opt for my rail cutting syste, simply to reduce the risk of financial loss due to mishaps., and not for the precision of cutting. It is simply an issue of risk management, not "precision" .

   And I've also seen rail guided systems from "sh*t" to "diamonds" and I still cannot compare any of em with even a moderately utilitarian table saw set up with a zero clearance insert and a  saw blade, properly selected and sharp.

   And after all that hyperbole, I is willing to admit that there is a place for guided rails stuff in the "ruff cut" arena, but I would be willing to bet that it ain't more accuratethan a TS , unless yer talkin about real upscale machines and even then, the last 8" or 9" of a horizontal cut, where the weight of the material falls on the saw blades, introduces an error in width in about 1/9 of material cut this way, on 8' sheet stock

   and those, mes amis are simply my thoughts on the matter.

   Eric in Cowtown

    

3. 
   hammer1 | Dec 02, 2005 06:15pm | #8

   For the most part, the extra length is most useable when cutting up 4x8 sheetgoods. Base units on kitchen cabinets are normally 24" x 36" +-. You not only need the extra capacity but you also need enough room to handle the sheets. You won't have to remove the fence as often when cross cutting longer stock. You will also need some supports under the extended length. I have 72" guide bars but I handle a lot of plywood and wouldn't want to be without them.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   scott57 | Dec 02, 2005 07:14pm | #9

   I think I am convinced, Santa should get me the new rail set.

   Thanks,

   Scott