I have an older Paralok 2 fence system on my Delta contractor saw. It has worked great for many years. I am now beginning to build finer projects, so the question is:
1) The fence is currently set for about .012″ runout. I was told years ago that a slight runout ( back of fence further from blade than front of fence) would achieve better rips with less back kick of material. Everything I’m reading now says to have the fence perfectly parallel to the blade.
2) Even if a slight amount of runout is desirable, .012″ is probably too much?
Any suggestions?
Replies
I set my fence a touch more on the outfeed side. I grew up with old style saw fences that didn't always stay aligned. As a result, I never trust any fence and measure front and back every time, doesn't matter what fence. I don't measure at the blade but to the miter ways. I use the width of the line mark on my tape. It's not much, probably .005" or less. Just enough so the teeth don't rub on the back of the work. .012" is too much and could pull the work.
If the fence is not parallel to the blade.. you certainly do not want "toe-in". I personally feel that if you are getting straight rips with .012 toe-out... no need to fix what ain't broken. As stated... the stock is already severed before it reaches mid-blade (the highest tooth) an if the fence is parallel to that point the toe-out has no significance. Toe-in would have significance if the wood spreads.. hits the fence and rebounds back into the rear teeth.
I use a short fence over my stock long fence that is 3/4" thick. A short fence only goes to just shy of mid blade as the actual severing takes place on the front teeth.. So... there is no fence beyond mid blade or highest tooth on my TS as it it not necessary on a standard rip using feather-boards left of blade. By having no fence it leaves a free zone beyond mid tooth which means even if you have severe reaction wood and it spreads radically in the kerf.. it cannot touch the fence and rebound back into the rear teeth causing kick-back.
So.. if you are getting straight rips now... don't worry about the .012 which is a knats hinny in reality but.. do check occasionally to be sure the fence does not go out of adjustment and reverse position behind the blade to a "toe-in" which is a no-no.
Good luck...
If you are running Forrest saw blades, the manufacturer recommends a slight toe out at back side of fence.
Sounds to me like what you have now is ok as previous posts have also stated.
Thanks for your comment. I do believe, now that you mention it, that Forrest was where I learned of the toe out.
I'm going to check my Forrest literature.
I have my Paralock II fence set up the same way. I have auxillary faces on my fence and I've been thinking about shimming the right face so on the rare occasion I use the fence on the left side, it will have the same toe-out.
Whatever you do, hang on to that fence. They just don't make fences like that anymore.
Thanks for your comment. It is a great fence, but I think I will do a little fine tuning ... maybe get that toe out down to .004"-.005".
You know, I paid good money for that fence, but as my "pappy" used to say "quality remains long after the price has been forgotten".
The first thing to check is that the blade a parallel to miter slots.
That way when you do crosscuts with something that travels in them there is no toe in or out.
But the fence should have some toe out at the back.
Do you have a riving knife or a splitter behind the blade?
That can help hold the wood against the fence at the back and away form the blade.
I agree that for finer work less toe out would be better.
And with finer work and wood you shouldn't have problems with wood that is reactive.
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