Replies

1. 
   hmthomas | Oct 23, 2002 01:18am | #1

   I had that saw and loved it. I used alot of really hard exotics (cocobolo, linum vitae) and really put a load on it. Just go slow on the thick stuff but keep it moving or it will burn. I had especially good results with the red Freud 80 tooth, its a good value too.

   good luck!

1. 
   forestgirl | Oct 23, 2002 05:12am | #7

   An 80-tooth rip blade?  Yikes!  Freud's 80-tooth blades are designed for crosscutting, as far as I know.  Rip blades are, generally, 24-40 tooth, the more teeth, the thinner the stock they will optimally cut.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   hmthomas | Oct 23, 2002 02:53pm | #8

   Forest Girl, you obviously read more into my post than was actually there.  My response was to the original post. There was no discussion of ripping anything. My mention of the 80 tooth blade never said anything about ripping. I think maybe you confused this thread with another discussion about the proper ripping blade.

   Let's try to keep this positive.

   Thanks. H. Thomas

2. 
   Denis364 | Oct 23, 2002 02:05am | #2

   Hi Allen:

   I agree with H thomas, unless your going to cut 8/4 continuously there is no reason to upgrade the motor.  Use the money to buy some nice wood for a project.

3. 
   rslatm | Oct 23, 2002 02:16am | #3

   If it's ripping that gives you a problem put a dedicated rip blade on. Less teeth takes less power. Also a link belt will help. A standard belt tends to have a memory and tends to bounce and it slips on the up bounce. You would be better up-grading your saw than to try to put a bigger motor on it. A two horse motor wouldn't be that much different and a three hp is too big for that saw not too mention needing a magnetic starter so it becomes cost ineffective. Start with a link belt and a rip blade.

1. 
   JeffKurtz | Oct 23, 2002 03:16pm | #9

   Dittos on all rsl has said about link belt and motor.

   Consider using thin kerf blade with stabilizer.

   Jeff

1. 
   rslatm | Oct 23, 2002 06:22pm | #10

   ...and I don't recommend a link belt as a cure all for all situations either. It's a waste of money if the motor is held in tension with a mechanical tensioner.  I, myself, prefer the standard kerf rip blade, but a thin kerf one will help. Less teeth and the link belt will make quite q difference.

   Rick

4. 
   hmthomas | Oct 23, 2002 02:27am | #4

   Allen, I just reread my post.  I intended to make the point that you should consider upgrading the blade before you go change the motor. Like I said, once it was set up my saw was very nice.

   Good Luck

5. 
   mrbird90 | Oct 23, 2002 03:24am | #5

   I have a Delta contractors saw with 1.5hp motor and today I ripped about 300 feet of 8/4 red oak using a newly sharpened  (chrome/nickel/molly) rip saw I could push the wood about a fast as  I wanted to with no bogging down or burning, just a nice clean cut. The key is a good sharp blade. The blade I am using is an old Rockwell No. 34-105 44 tooth rip blade that has been sharpened at least 6 times in the last 10 years. Cost to sharpen runs from $3.00 to 6.00 depending upon how dull it is. I have two and rotate while the other is being sharpened. No need for more power. Save you money and buy a new blade.

6. 
   nigelUsa | Oct 23, 2002 04:20am | #6

   As mel said, use the right blade!

7. 
   HowardAcheson | Oct 23, 2002 06:36pm | #11

   The key to cutting whether ripping or crosscutting is to use the proper blade for the thickness of the stock and the type of stock. For 2" solid stock an 80 tooth blade is not correct for either crosscutting or ripping. Too many teeth are in the cut and excess heat will be generated. For most crosscutting, a 60 blade is the best. 80 tooth blades are generally only used for very thin stock or laminate covered composite materials like melamine covered particleboard.

   For ripping lumber more than 3/4" thick, a 24 tooth rip blade is what will work best.

   I have a 1.5hp Delta and routinely rip 2" stock using a standard kerf 24 tooth rip blade without any smoking.

   Before you consider making any modifications to your saw--which you really can't anyway--get some correct blades and you will find that your saw will work just fine.

   Take a look at the thread a little ways down "60 vs 24 tooth for ripping."

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/23/2002 11:38:21 AM ET by Howie

8. 
   Rdan1 | Oct 23, 2002 11:11pm | #12

   Get a rip blade.  I recently got an older 8-tooth carbide rip blade from my father, and i'm amazed at how effective it is for ripping.  Dan

1. 
   riverr1 | Oct 24, 2002 08:27am | #13

   8 tooth? Don't believe I've ever seen one.

1. 
   Rdan1 | Oct 25, 2002 04:35pm | #14

   Yeah, it's an old Craftsman that I inherited.