Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jul 11, 2006 09:31pm | #1

   When I worked at a tool dealership I got that question a lot. The simplest and cheapest thing to do first is try a dedicated rip blade. They make a 10" 10 tooth blade for the pallet industry that cuts fairly well and doesn't require much power. Plus it's typical to joint the edges to remove saw marks. Most motors get too  big and heavy to put on a contractor saw. Pay attention to the frame size as well. Try the dedicated rip blade first.

1. 
   lordulrich | Dec 24, 2021 08:18am | #14

   I'd also try a thin kerf blade. Less material the saw is trying to remove.

2. 
   DougF | Jul 11, 2006 09:41pm | #2

   I had an old Craftsman 10" contractor saw that I convert from a 1 to a 2hp motor.  I experienced no problems except the top start to sag.  I don't know if this a direct result of hanging more weight out the back or 35 years of use.  When I switched the motor I also when to machined pulleys and a link belt and that change made a insignificant difference as well.  I would recommend the first step is to install machined pulleys, a link belt and a good ripping blade before you upgrade the motor.  If it turns out you still want a larger motor, you aren't out any money.  Oh, make sure your pulleys are coplanar.   

   
   

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   Edited 7/11/2006 2:42 pm by DougF

3. 
   pcooper | Jul 12, 2006 12:28am | #3

   I did the motor change on my saw just a few months ago, the ond one died and Northern Tool had a good deal on a motor. I went with a 2hp that would run on either 110 or 220, and found that the 220 set up uses a lot less effort to start and run, seems to do just fine overall. I couldn't tell that the motor added significant weight to the back, at least not enough to cause any problem yet.

1. 
   10450 | Jul 12, 2006 10:19pm | #7

   This saw is kind of a hybrid cabnet/contractor saw although more on the cabinet side. It's got a pretty hefty trunion system and under-table parts which aught to hold up pretty well.
   You say Northern Tool has some good quality motors? I've seen some at HF but you know the debate never ends about that place.Thanks,
   Kurt

1. 
   pcooper | Jul 12, 2006 10:56pm | #8

   I quit buying from HF a long time ago, they don't have the quality I like to get for the money. Maybe Norther isn't much better....but at least I am at a store to look at the stuff.

4. 
   Knotscott | Jul 12, 2006 01:06am | #4

   Kurt - I've been cutting 12/4" hard maple and 10/4" elm with my 22124 with relative ease, and that has a nearly identical motor and drive system as your saw. Good alignment and blade choice will make as much or more difference as a motor change. For ripping I'm using a 3/32" thin kerf DeWalt 7124TK 24T or a Leitz 24T FTG TK. If you're using the stock blade, a full kerf blade, or the alignment is off a bit, it'll slow the pace of thick ripping. Good alignment is pretty much free! Check alignment, clean the blade, and make the right blade selection before trying a motor swap.

   That said, you should be able to easily add a 2hp motor with no issues. Not sure the belts will do well with any larger motor than that.

1. 
   cmiller231 | Jul 12, 2006 05:04am | #5

   I would also limit myself to a 2 hp.. I put a 5 hp compressor duty motor on my35 yr old Craftsman . Botoom line . yes it did work but becasuse of the exrra weight it it cused the iron under the table to twist , so it was a constant relienment issue .Also watch the over all length of the motor as  i found out ( using a large motor ) ) that it rose above the table cranking it on a 45 deg angle      Chris

2. 
   10450 | Jul 12, 2006 10:15pm | #6

   Thanks for the reply. You're right about the 22124 being basically the same saw at least as far as the motor and trunion system goes. I'll hold off on the motor change and see how it does. I'm using the Forester Woodworker II (love it). Will this do with ripping or should I get a dedicated rip blade.Thanks for saving me the money and time. How do you like your saw? I'd like to have the cast iron wings if for nothing else the weight and stability that extra weight it might give.Kurt

1. 
   Knotscott | Jul 13, 2006 12:47am | #9

   I've got a WWII too...the 3/32" TK version and it'll rip pretty well to about 2", but my TK 24T ripper does it much more efficiently and saves the teeth on the WWII....not as clean of a cut, but respectable and much faster. I'd buy the $11 Leitz ripper from Mike Jackson....and try to limit the number of "thank you" notes you send me to just one! ;) (it's identical to the Schumacher and Sohn ripper @ $46.... really a great ripper at an incredible price)10" z24 FLAT TOP fast rip thin kerf #011 $ $11 eachhttp://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=2464051&page=4&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7I'm very happy with the 22124...can't imagine a better 110v machine.

2. 
   DougF | Jul 13, 2006 04:47pm | #10

   10450 is right aboutrecommending a 24T blade for ripping thicker stock, particularly with a smaller motor.  I have a 3hp saw and still use a 24T when ripping anything much over 6/4.  I have a Woodworker II and it is is a good blade but pushing thick stock through 40T is not as safe and will unnecesarily load the motor.  Use a ripping blade , rip it slightly proud and plane (power or hand) to finished dimensions. 

5. 
   DrWatson | Jul 13, 2006 10:41pm | #11

   IMHO the susgestions for using a thin kerf blade are probably your best bet. They were designed to provide acceptable performance with lower HP saws.

   If you do continue thinking about changing motors give some consideration to the capacity of the original switch and wiring. They may not hanldle the increased load of the higher HP.

6. 
   tjm_solutions | Dec 23, 2021 03:46pm | #12

   I bought a 10" , 1hp tilting arbor cats iron table saw 30 years ago. DIY plus some commisioned furntiure. First thing I did was drop down to 9" blades for 95% of my work. More torque at the tip with only a small trade off in lower RPM. I invested in some custom thin kerf carbide blades, a ripper, cross cut and gen purpose. It really ran fine, even a CMT Orange 7" dado stacker at 3/4" width ran through ply or cherry.
   I am replacing the motor only because I lucked into a 3450 RPM, 220V single phase, 2hp with the same frame style. Results TBD but I expect to be able to rip a 10" blade at a 45 through 5/4 with ease.

7. 
   _mj_ | Dec 23, 2021 03:52pm | #13

   This thread is from 2006.