Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 13, 2002 11:26pm | #1

   When you checked the blade for parallel, did you do when it was tilted at the 45-degree angle?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

2. 
   AlanTurner | Aug 14, 2002 02:29am | #2

   Nice idea; I'll try it.  I have been using white charcoal artists pencils.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 14, 2002 04:10am | #3

   Huh?  You must have left for vacation early!  ROFL!!!  :-)forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   DavidxDoud | Aug 14, 2002 05:06am | #4

   cutting some poplar yesterday at a 45 degree angle

   I'm assuming you are ripping -

   hard to push - got dust instead of shavings

   are you using a rip blade?

   pulled towards the blade

   I'm not sure I understand this,  it is trying to self-feed sort of circumstance?  or just not cutting a straight line? - whatever,  certainly the alignment is suspect,  although the board itself may have tension and stress within it that could cause it to curl one way or the other causing trouble - you do have the the blade tilted away from the fence,  don't you? - DOUD 

1. 
   fm107 | Aug 14, 2002 04:47pm | #7

   Yes, I was ripping, using a 40 tooth FREUD blade - I'm not sure which type anymore

   The blade was tilted AWAY from the fence.

   Stock was laminated - 5" total.

   I cleaned the blade before performing the cut.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 14, 2002 07:20pm | #10

   Hi fm, a couple things here:

   Here's a link for various ideas about aligning procedures:  http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg=6707.1&search=y

   Although there seems to be a possibility or maybe even probability that your blade needs sharpening, tuning or replacing, you definitely need to check all alignment criteria before you test a cut whether with the same blade or a new blade.  The best blade in the world won't rip worth a hoot if your saw's not aligned properly.  I know this from experience, believe me!  (Although I certainly don't have the best blade in the world, LOL).

   My blade, miter slot and fence are all lined up quite nicely now, after a huge struggle in the beginning with this used saw, and I simply  fastened a straightedge to my miter guage to check it all.  A dial indicator would be nice, but it's certainly not required.

   You may want to raise the saw blade up just a bit for a long rip.  The dust will clear a little better and the teeth will enter at a sharper angle and perhaps be a bit more efficient.  I use this technique and it has worked well.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 14, 2002 08:34pm | #11

   Get some plastic draftsman triangles, (2) 60/30 and (1) 45. A very cheap solution that yields perfect alignment. I NEVER rely on my miter gauge, realigning it to the triangles with every use. Bye, bye unsquare cuts. Put the two 60/30's together to check rip fence and blade to table alignment. Just be sure to align to the edges of two blade teeth as they stick out about 0.005 beyond blade face.

   BTW, I currently have fm's problem with a compound mitre saw blade that always pulls to one side. I solve this by my aforementioned method of taking the first cut oversize about 1/16", then shave off to the line. I'm too lazy to change bladed.

   Dave of Fla.

   Edited 8/14/2002 1:42:39 PM ET by none

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 15, 2002 05:43am | #12

   Hi Dave, I'm baaaccck LOL.  Although I don't use my CMS for much other than chopping up firewood at this point, I've read that the blade can wander like that for lack of having much wood to bite into.  Some people use a piece of dummy stock clamped together with the workpiece to give more bulk for the blade to cut into.  Sounds like you have a good system going for you though!

   I did use a plastic drafting triangle to align my Incra 1000 miter gauge to 90-degrees.  Did some test pieces and got it perfect.  Now that that's done, I've not needed to check any other angles.  Love the Incra (I know, I've said it before, sorry!)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   Edited 8/14/2002 10:46:33 PM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 16, 2002 04:34pm | #13

   Yes, this method never fails to get a perfect mitre, unless I forget to put my blade completely vertical! I'm still using my crappy old Delta gauge -- looks like it's been through a war, but as often as I drop the dang thing -- I can't see buying something better. I'd just wreck that, too.

   One of these days I'll probably slice my nose down the middle as I stick my face down to the blade to take those fine slices off. Wouldn't that be cool, a split nose?

   Dave of Fla.

4. 
   forestgirl | Aug 14, 2002 07:56am | #5

   Hope you can come back and give us some more info on this problem.  David makes some good points for sure!  What would help us help you would be answers to the following:

   • Confirm you are ripping at a 45-degree bevel (pretty easy to assume this)
   • How thick is your stock? How wide is it? If it's long stock is it supported on the outfeed side?
   • What type of blade are you using?  A quality combination or rip blade is advisable.
   • Did you check for parallel with the blade tilted to 45 degrees?  A blade that's parallel at 90 degrees may not stay that way when tilted.
   • Are you getting any burning?  How high above the stock is the top of blade set?
   • Are you familiar with safety rules on the tablesaw, specifically (as David asked) do you have the blade tilted away from the fence??  Ripping on a bevel can be very dangerous if not done properly.  The use of a featherboard and/or push stick may be advisable depending on how wide the stock is.

   These are the questions that leap to mind now that I've had a moment to sit down with this one.  Others may have additional questions.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

1. 
   fm107 | Aug 14, 2002 04:51pm | #8

   In answer to your questions:

   1- 45 degree bevel

   2- 3/4" thick, 5" wide (laminated)

   3- I did not check if I was parralel to the blade @ 45 degrees - I'll check tonight. BTW, How does one accurately check blade & fence alignment?

   4- I get burning on the waste only - Blade set no more than 1 tooth above stock surface.

   5- Used a featherboard, no push stick.

   F.M.

5. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 14, 2002 03:29pm | #6

   I understand this one because I experienced the same thing. One day I couldn't cut an exact 45 miter to save my life. Blade pulled to one side every time, usually pulling the piece with it. Not much, say a 1/32 but that's all it takes to wreck a mitre.

   I didn't discover why until I changed blades. Dull or out of true blades cause this pulling to one side. The same blade after sending out for reconditioning no longer did that. Combination blades are the worst for doing this. None of my cross cuts have ever done it.

   Try changing blades and see if that doesn't solve the problem. If not, make your first cut a little long, and then slice off in increments down to the line. That will keep the blade from pulling because it reduces friction. That's the way I usually do mitres because it's hard to get it exactly right the first time without sticking your nose into the blade!

   Dave of Fla.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/14/2002 9:13:48 AM ET by none

1. 
   fm107 | Aug 14, 2002 04:52pm | #9

   Thanks! I'll certainly try a different blade and/or have the one I currently own reconditioned.

   F.M.