I purchased a used 15 amp, 10 inch Delta table saw and it continually shuts down when I am making cuts in .5″ white Oak. I turn the saw off, hit the small switch to reset and turn the saw on. Things go well for the next foot and then the situation repeats itself. The saw was not expensive, but it is a frustrating piece of equipment at this time.
I am a retired high school Biology teacher who was given access to the shop at school after showing I was knowledgeable regarding the proper use of all equipment. I would like to start my own small workshop for projects to be used around the home. This was my first purchase. I now have a joiner, lathe, plainer, router and miter saw. These all work fine. What can I do to remedy my frustrating saw?
Replies
It could be you have discovered why this used saw was sold . . .
What blade are you using? A full kerf blade will stall these saws dry easily. I would only use a thin-kerf blade. A sharp, combination blade.
It could also be that your fence is not properly aligned. If it is binding against the blade, it will put pressure on the work, and stall the blade. Check if the precise distance from the fence to the blade teeth is the same at the back of the blade as the front.
The motor might be overheating some other way. Could be dust clogging something. Might simply be a faulty overload protector.
Oak is tough on a small saw with a universal motor. But .5 inch oak should really not be an issue.
Thank you for the timely suggestions. One I have not checked was the alignment of the fence at different locations along the blade. This may be why some cuts have dark "burn" marks. Imagine that! I have often thought that the overload protector may be weaker than needed. I will check the blade/fence alignment first, then move to the overload protector/switch. I will consult an electrician on that one using all the respective specs of the motor. Any suggestions on a reliable, mid range table saw?
John's suggestions are all good. I'd like to add one more item to the list of things to check if I may.
Try plugging the saw in close to your electrical panel and without an extension cord. Then make a test cut.
This test will eliminate the possibility that the saw is experiencing voltage drop caused by long lengths of wire in your home's electrical system.
Voltage drop will make the saw run poorly, quickly overheat and trip the circuit breaker.
Mike
It sounds like overload to me. Things to look at are:
1. Power issue. Using an extension cord maximum 25'/minimum 12 gauge. Be sure there is nothing else of significance running on the same circuit. Best to have your table saw on a dedicated circuit. Old machine/weak motor?
2. Blade. Is it sharp? Using the correct one for the cut? Thin kerf best for this type saw.
3. Bogging due to binding. Is the fence aligned properly? Is the edge against the fence perfectly straight or is it bowed? Is the face of the board against the table perfectly flat? Using a splitter or riving knife?
IMO what to look for in a table saw:
1. Induction motor. IOW it has a belt, not a direct drive. Direct drive table saws motors or really nothing more than a souped up circular saw. Minimum 1 1/2HP.
2. Cast iron top
3. Cast iron trunnion. This is the arbor assembly the blade attaches to.
4. Trunnion mounted to the top, not the frame.
5. A good quality fence that locks securely and holds its settings.
IMO most of the "homeowner" type saw you see at Home Depot and Lowes will not fit the bill, and neither will a jobsite saw, even a quality brand.
FWW has excellent tool reviews.
Hope this helps!
I have wired my Delta saw to a dedicated 240V system ! Before this I had a 120 volt branch circuit and the lights would dim when ever I started the saw. I also switched to a link belt, it seems to run quieter . I hope that helps also a ripping blade for ripping.
Fence was off 1/16". Corrected with laser and seemed to run well, then same problem. Will get a general purpose, thin kerf, sharp blade and try again tomorrow.
Follow through on the electrical test. If the saw is on the same circuit as other items (lights, fan, other outlets in the house) it could be behaving correctly. If your jointer is fine face jointing a 4" wide piece of oak, plug the saw in where the jointer was plugged in. That should be sufficient to isolate the problem to the saw or the electrical.
My son bought a used Delta saw, and had a similar problem. It would start, but keep stalling.
He bought it from a junk dealer for next to nothing, planning to use the top for a different project. Eventually he decided to try to get the saw working.
Buried somewhere on or near the motor was a switch to change from 110 v to 220 v. The saw had a 110 plug but the motor was set to 220. After flipping the switch the saw as fine.
For $20 and a couple weeks of fiddling around he has a pretty nice saw.
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