Setting up a shop in the two car garage in our new home. Interested in opinions on my first table saw. Thinking a contractor size saw placed in a 4×8 rolling workstation. First project will be building new kitchen cabinet doors, if not the complete cabinets, remaking some of the built-ins’ around the house and likely some furniture down the line. Not completely sure what my budget is, guessing $650 for the saw and I don’t mind buying used if I can find something good. I’ve been out of the hoby for quite some time and looking forward to finally having a place to get to work.
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If I was starting over, I would try to spring for a sawstop cabinet saw. If that was out if reach financially, my second option would be used, for sure. And I would be more interested in getting something cheap and with a decent fence, and keep saving for a sawstop.
There really isn't much difference between the saw itself. Contractor saws are pretty much the same. But if you get one with a wonky fence, you'll look to upgrade it right away. And then you'll have way more money in a mediocre saw than you should.
If I were starting over, I would never buy a Powermatic contractor table saw. I bought two of them and after two months (and many trips from their tec.), I had to send both of them back because the blade because impossible to raise. I would buy a Jet. I know that both of these saws are made by the same company, but for some reasons, there were several things wrong with the Powermatic. If you are going to make cabinets, you are going to need to use a dado cutter, my Freud dado set wouldn't fit on the arbor. The good thing, they took both saws back. The bad thing, I lost months of shop time and I had to fight tooth and nail to get them to refund my money.
The thing that has had the biggest influence on my ordinary 10 inch Rockwell contractor saw has been my choice of blades. On it (and all my other saws) I have gone to FORREST blades. They cost more than average hardware store blades but do a much better job in my opinion. They have types and sizes for all types of saws and work. They can be purchased from LEE VALLEY and I send them back to the manufacturer in New Jersey for sharpening. Also, to answer any thought you may have, I do not work for FORREST.
When I started I bought a 1.5 HP AMT contractor saw which I chose for the cast iron top and wings. Not the least bit portable and noisy as hell but had "enough" power and weighed enough to be stable. I added a Vega fence almost immediately and used that saw for 15-20 years. The fence makes all the difference. I passed that saw on when I upgraded to a 3hp Sawstop and is still being used. I put a Vega fence on the new Sawstop as well. If you can't afford a Sawstop, any used cast iron saw in reasonable condition will serve well. Put the cash saved by buying used into a premium fence and you'll be happy.
There are older used contractor saws out there that can be very serviceable, but you really need to learn the saw and keep it tuned up. I was like you - out of the hobby for sometime. During that time, big advances occurred in regards to some tools, the tablesaw being one of them. I would pile onto those above who suggest you go used and save for a SawStop. In the past several years, saws have gained safety features such as a Riving knife, better guards, better dust collection, left tilt (on most), and the ultimate, SawStop finger-saving technology. I built many projects on a Delta 2000 model cast iron top/wings with a Biesemeyer fence - no riving knife, below average guard, right tilt, no dust collection. I now have a SawStop - wish I had gotten it sooner. If you look you can likely find a contractor saw with cast iron for far, far less than $650 - no one wants these anymore given the jobsite saws are so much easier to move, they have poor dust collection, etc. As you budget, keep in mind there are several accessories you will want to plan for, especially if you get an older used saw: 1) you will want to have a good blade - maybe consider Freud Fusion combination blade or Forrester like mentioned above. On a contractor saw, I think you will want a thin kerf blade (I did with mine). 2) I would highly recommend MicroJig's Grippers - they will help keep you safe if you use them whenever feasible - they aren't cheap but they are quite versatile - my guess is you will not regret having them and they work for other tools. Otherwise, make some good push blocks (e.e. has a handle) 3) If the saw doesn't have a riving knife, then MicroJig makes a splitter for rip cutting that helps avoid kickback. Its installed on a zero clearance insert 4) Dado set (or 2 piece finger joint set, or a flat top rip blade perhaps - it can work). There are also after market "riving knives" 5) Make or buy a sled. Most miter gauges are not very good. The other saw you might want to consider - especially given it sounds like you are going to be doing some cabinet making is a Track Saw. Doesn't replace table saw entirely, but it does a lot. Rides on a track to make cuts perfectly, no splintering due to zero clearance of the track, built in riving knife for no kickback, very decent dust collection on most, and its a lot easier to cut sheet goods up with it than sawing full sheets on a table saw. You can make approximate cuts with a circ saw and trim to size on table saw, but the with a track saw, it can be once and done. Good hunting!
I've just updated my saw on John_C2's advice so I also support his comments.
However for years, I have managed well enough with a deWalt flipover saw which is a very good chop saw and a pretty poor but useable table saw. I've made some decent stuff on it but it's not a lot of fun.
It is let down by the small table and the fence, which is difficult to get to stay parallel to the blade and a really shallow mitre slot (so no possibility of using it for sleds)
I'm going to advise the cheap saw though to start with, but look for:
At least 2 inch depth of cut
A good secure fence that does not wobble and can be adjusted to be parallel to the blade
a deep enough mitre slot to guide a sled
If you can, an extension to allow wider cuts - you will need at least as much space between the fence and blade as the widest door panel. Something like the dewalt 745XE would be ideal unless you are making shed doors and would probably hold it's value well, especially if you can find one used.
Don't go for dado capability on a cheap saw - just buy a router and edge guide.
For kitchen doors though, you will also really want a powerful router and some pricey bits. A bandsaw, router table, 1/2" router and panel bits might get you better results for what you want to do first.
For 650 you should be able to get lots of good options.
Get a one with a riving knife. A simple but extremely effective addition. If you find a good saw without one that's cool but invest in a good splitter.
There are lots of hybrid saws that are a huge step up from the old contractor style saws. I have a Rigid r4512 that's a perfectly capable saw. I'm looking to upgrade but just because I want to. It's been a solid saw that's capable of ripping 8/4 maple without issue (with a sharp blade of course). I'm not crazy about the fence but I've been able to tune it up and it stays straight. They can be had for a good price on the used market (I paid 200 CAD for mine but it needed some serious TLC). New they're in your 650 range. Decent dust collection, riving knife, cast iron top (the steel wings are shit but I swapped mine out for cast iron wings I found used). Plus, it's on a mobile base which is super handy.
Sure if you got the cash go saw stop, but sawstops are seriously expensive (also seriously excellent). But it's crazy to assert that you need to go that route at this point in your woodworking journey.
Thank you all for the great recommendations and advice. I live in a small town in Wyoming and am finding that the used market here is very limited. I have a month or two before we will be moved in so no rush on picking up a saw. I have been looking at a few of the Hybrid saws, and they fall close to my budget. They seem like a better option than the contractor saws I have been looking at. The Rigid looks like it is well liked, and i just watched a few reviews of the Delta model. Adding a nice aftermarket fence to a Hybrid saw looks easier that trying to finagle it onto a contractor saw station.
I have the same Ridgid saw and for the $550 I spent I couldn't be more happy with it. HD carries it, so if they don't have one in stock they should be able to get one for you without shipping charges. I think it's better than the Delta saw for the money.
The only think I don't like as much about the Ridgid is the inserts for zero clearance cuts are a bit more of a pain to make. There are several ideas out there on the internet though, so it's do-able.
If you find a used Ridgid and it's built prior to, I think, 2015, make sure it has a "II" on the arbor; that's the upgraded one. (Might also be a "2" I don't remember!)
I had a nice contractor’s saw but could never get the blade parallel to the table. I finally upgraded to a used Unisaw and wow, it took me just a few minutes to get it set and it’s like waking up from a nightmare. It cuts perfectly, and like through warm butter. I can cut with far more precision. I kick myself for not just spending the extra $$ all those years ago. I only paid $850 for the Unisaw.
Be sure to research both those saws before you pull the plug. I’ve heard negative things about both.
Just be aware that someone’s evaluation may be experience limited to that saw.
What I’m saying is I have a Jet cabinet saw and if I were to use a Rigid or Delta my review would be different ;-)
Not saying you need a 3HP cab saw, but IMO you should avoid the consumer type saws you’re looking at.
What to look for:
1. Cast iron the more, the better.
2. Cast iron trunnions, not stamped steel.
3. Trunnions mounted to top, nor frame.
4. True induction motor, not a direct drive.
5. Biesmeyer type fence.
6. Minimum 36” fence capacity desirable.
I like my saw stop but without the overhead dust collector it throws up A LOT of dust. My old delta was much less messy.
i have a good table saw. this table is the very good table saw. i finding another table saw. i don't satisfied . so i have decided my table is the best table .
if your need a good table saw then you should justify and recharge this name. dewalt-dw715-review
I would only go with a Sawstop.
When you include the cost of re-attachment surgery it more than pays for itself. Why do you think woodworking schools have gone in this direction?
I have taken woodworking classes & on 2 different times the Sawstop brake was set off. It sounds like a gun going off & everyone came running. Both times the person did NOT lose fingers; no deeper than a bad scratch!
I am going to pile on to the SawStop party. Fortunately for me I showed my wife the video and her response was 'that is the only saw you can have'. Gosh darn it... ;)
Sawstop, its a big purchase but worth every penny.
I'll comment on RobertEJr's list. Item 3:
You would want cabinet mounted trunnions (like on a cabinet saw) over trunnions mounted to the table top (like a contractor or job site saw).
Trunnions mounted to the saw's top are a pain to adjust. This type is also often of a design (there are exceptions) that move out of alignment when beveling the blade.
Trunnions mounted to the saw's cabinet are generally on more heavy duty machines. Adjusting the top as opposed to the trunnion makes alignment very easy.
Yes, cabinet mount for sure.
To adjust a blade parallel to the miter slots, it's much, much easier when the trunnions are cabinet mounted. And less likely to go out of alignment.
Knotrealgood: Get the accessory blade guard with the dust collection port on the back. I ran a drop leg from the main trunk of my dust system and a hose comes from a hook in the ceiling. The setup catches pretty much everything on rips and a just-smaller percentage on crosscuts.
I just bought a sawstop contractor saw. Worth every penny, and I don't have to worry about cutting my fingers off. I wouldn't even bother with anything less now.
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