I just burned out the motor in my Delta 36-725 T2 table saw trying to rip 6/4 pecan. I am attempting to get the motor out to repair it and thought this might be a good time to upgrade.
I am looking at a number of saws from Alpha, Saw Stop, Grizzly and Jet. I do work with ply products sometimes, when I occasionally make built-in cabinets and door panels. My interest is primarily in furniture making. I’m making a 40″ x 96″ dining table now. Other projects will include nightstands, bed, etc.
Is 2HP sufficient or is 3-4 HP recommended. I will work with 8/4 walnut, cherry, oak at times as well as lesser thicknesses. If I go with a 2 HP machine, what am I giving up? I was able to make quite a few cuts in 6/4 pecan with a 1 HP motor before I started pushing it too hard and killed the motor.
What size table is recommended? I found the 27″ deep table and 30″ rip capacity to be a fairly significant limitation of the Delta.
I appreciate all feedback. Thanks.
Replies
Go at least 3HP. The diff between power levels is felt in feed rate. Plan on cleaning up lots of burning on the thick cherry at lower power.
If you're buying a new saw I vote go with Sawtop. Lotsa reasons, some of them bleed.
I’ve had a 3 HP Jet for nearly 25 years and never felt it was underpowered. 10/4 maple, a lot of ash and oak. I use a rip blade for the heavy stuff for sure, but it powers through it all.
Get the 3 HP and you’ll never regret it. You’ll need a 220 volt circuit.
As for size, my Jet has 32” rails. I got that over the more common 55” for space mostly.
Te saw depth is probably 27”, but I think most are about that size. My outfeed table is a table, melamine top and oak legs (like a kitchen table) that is the width of the saw and about 24” deep. It isn’t attached to the saw.
You probably cut more ply than I do, but that said I doubt the 32” rip has been an issue for me more than a dozen times. I get ply rough cut at the lumber yard though so that might be why. And even if I have full sheet I make initial cuts with a circular saw.
I’ve been very happy with the Jet. I used Saw Stops during some weekend classes. It didn’t feel any different than my Jet, but I also didn’t put a finger into the blade.
Mike
I have to say Sawstop. In my mind, other brands that are marginally better are irrelevant.
If there is a way I can protect my hands and fingers, then it's a no-brainer to take that route.
I love my SawStop, and everyone I know loves theirs.
The 3HP 240V is DEFINITELY what you will need if you're working with 8/4
It's not even an option.
Whatever brand you go with, this is going to be the case.
2 HP or 120V isn't going to cut it...pun intended hehe
Also, the 52" Wing option for the SawStop isn't much more at all, IIRC. I believe you can buy the larger rail separately, too, and make your own wing.
My Hammer K3 is a superb saw. Pricey compared with the other options, but should be on your list. You can order them with a scoring blade, which is really nice if you work with ply, though brown hardwood ply always chips out regardless.
There are many advantages - it is REALLY powerful - you can bog down even a 3Kw/4HP motor, but you really have to try hard. It laughs at maple. Wet treated 4" though - not such a breeze. It has a sliding table so I have never needed a crosscut sled and it is huge so you are a log way from the blade and relatively safe.
The disadvantage though is that the blade only tilts right, and the fence can only be on the right (it's a great fence) so bevel cuts require you to make a jig for the slider, which is of course the reason - it's far safer that way. Just a pain to do.
+1 on the Sawstop. If you go that route and use dado blades, you'll also need an 8" stack and a separate dado specific brake. A nice feature is the internal dust collection shroud and be sure to get the heavy duty mobile base (that was highly recommeded by another poster here and I'm glad I did).
If he can wait and be patient they often do promos where you can choose between a free base or free overhead collection with purchase through sawstop.
Enable email marketing updates for a while and im sure he will see the promo.
I think theyre a couple hundred bucks otherwise
Speaking of which I think Sawstop is celebrating 20 years of business. I recall some good discounts until September.
My comment is not about which saw to get but the difference in power between your old Delta and a new 3 HP saw. Things that you get away with on your old unit will be dangerous on the new one. Be very careful and use safe techniques.
Thank you for the comments. Based on comments above and looking at my shop space, I think I will go with the smaller rip capacity. I can always upgrade that later. I'm also sold on 3+ HP.
The internet is full of burned-out motor stories on the Delta 36-725 T2. Although it's a "contractor saw" with cast iron top, it isn't the usual configuration, with a TEFC motor hanging off the back. The motor is under the top, and it's a universal motor. It's not a surprise yours burned out.
Get the 3HP. It will be night and day over that Delta. I upgraded from a 1-3/4 HP contractor saw to a 3HP cabinet saw several years ago, and there's no comparison. And the only saw on my list was the Sawstop.
I had a 1 3/4 horse Powermatic. I won’t go into a long story about why, but I upgraded to a 5hp industrial SawStop. The difference was night and day. Not only does the SawStop cut through any wood selected, I no longer worry about losing a finger or a thumb. The SawStop cost about $1,000 more than a Jet, Grizzly, or Powermatic with similar features, but you can’t put a price tag on your fingers