Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Sep 23, 2008 07:13am | #1

   I really prefer to adjust the fence to the saw blade, not the miter slot.  Granted, theoretically if the blade is adjusted to the miter slot, it shouldn't make any difference, but I just feel like I'll get more reliable numbers off the blade.

   The fence can "toe" away from the blade a tiny bit on the outfeed end, but I don't know what the outer limit is.  I've stopped ripping against a fence that extends all the way across the table, much safer that way.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
2. 
   andyfew322 | Sep 23, 2008 07:14am | #2

   Depends which way also, if it is away from the blade it should be fine.

    

   yep I change my oil every 3000
   miles or when I get bored...
   which ever comes first

3. 
   roc | Sep 23, 2008 07:45am | #3

   It depends; are you making dog houses or reproductions of the Thomas Seymour Derby commode. How much does the fence flex when you push on the back end of it?

   Also open to the back of the saw is sort of ok (but causes fuzzing of the work) but open to the front of the saw can cause binding and kick back.

   I can recommend the book by Ian Kirby called The Accurate Table Saw ISBN 096439995-4

   Hell when I started fixing my cheepy saw I bet the fence varied that much in and out along its length. Be sure the fence face(s) is truly flat along its whole length and that the face(s) is square to the table along its whole length.

   By the way Mr Kirby says set everything parallel: blade to slots, fence to blade. Keep adjusting until there IS NO DIFFERENCE. So you see make it as accurate as possible and you can't go wrong.

   Then and this is the important bit: he says make cuts and reverse them and the error will show you which way to correct from there to make accurate cuts. The static saw and the running saw may be two different things. In the book he shows you allot more than I am willing to type into this post.

   A piece of paper is about three thousandths and that much can make a difference. Depends what you are making, how much stress is in the wood when you cut it etc.

   I find it worth while to get a miter slot miter gauge that can be adjusted for almost no play. If you are metal worker oriented you can modify the one that came with the saw.

   To get even more into it the accuracy may change after the saw gets warmed up from a lot of use so look for that as well. Plan on correcting the final parts with planes etc. for best results.

   Sorry to be confusing but that is what just went through my pea brain.

   PS: two quotes and I will stop. The first is by Thomas Edison "Do you expect the thing to work by its self? You have got to MAKE the damned thing work".

   the second by me: " Every tool you buy is a kit and you have to take it home and complete what the manufacturer started."

   Good luck, I am pulling for you, we are all in this together. ( Mr. Red Green)

   Edited 9/23/2008 1:02 am by roc

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/23/2008 1:06 am by roc

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Sep 24, 2008 02:14am | #4

   .009 from the front of the saw to the back of the saw using the miter gauge to dial in on..

   Then consider tension release in stock.. consider arbor run-out.. consider miter slot alignment to the blade.... and then take a feeler gauge and flip out the .009 blade on it. Turn it to different angles and study it carefully.

   Once you do.. you will likely discover that you would have to strap C-4 plastic explosives to a knat's hinny to get it under a .009 gap.  Give that some thought and the answer to your question will likely come to your own mind.

   In the meantime.. I would just continue cutting... :>)

   Regards...

   Sarge..

5. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 24, 2008 03:47am | #5

   I agree with Forest's post...

   I have a 'junk' saw that works.. For me.. I love it! So I will post from my observations...

   I use a dial indicator often to check.. As far as I am concerned, I like the measurements I see.. I get straight cuts! Period! OK except for the burn at the end of the cuts!

   But when looking as the cuts are made... The cuts I 'see' the 'stick' wander a bit at the back end of the fence... My only worry then is that the 'stick' falls on the shop floor and gets dented on the end! Yes.. Now how to solve the burning I sometimes get at the end of the cut..

   Maybe take a inch thick blade to overcome this? Probably..

   I'm no expert on Physics. BUT forces work with or against each other!