Hi: I have a craftsman contractors saw. It is a cheap one, I think I got it for $119. When I cut hardwood, I have to feed them extremely slowly or the saw will shut off. Then I have to wait ten seconds and reset the breaker on the front of the saw. It happens when I have the blade raised around 2 inches cutting through oak or other hardwoods. I’ve got an 80 tooth blade that is pretty sharp or a 40 tooth blade also sharp.
How bad is this for the saw? What can I do, tune-up wise, to help?
Replies
If the breaker needs to be repeatedly reset, it means that you're asking too much. Keep it up and the saw motor will probably burn out.
To get the most out of your saw try the following:
1. Have as much of the saw blade exposed as possible (but be aware that this increase the chances of an accident)
2. Use a thin kerf blade with as few teeth as possible (rough cut but less power required)
3. Take multiple passes if necessary (eg: take a 1" pass and then follow it with a 2" pass)
4. If you're ripping timber use a blade with a rip tooth profile.
5. Keep the blades really sharp and talk over your problem with your local saw doctor.
6. Use the guards and use common sense. Don't force the timber into the saw.
Ted
builderbill,
I agree with everything Ted said. When I had my $99 skill TS ...with a thin kerf, 24 tooth blade on it...cutting thick hardwoods was no problem....lots of burn marks sometimes...but no problem.
As ted said you have totally the wrong blade on the saw. What is happening when you use the 80 or 40 tooth blade. The tooth cuts and the small space infront of the tooth fills up with saw dust and this stops the tooth cutting (nowhere for new dust to go) You need a ripping blade with at the most 24 teeth. When you look at the blade you will see there is a lot more room for saw dust. Save the 80 and 40 tooth for very fine cross cuts, but they will also bog down on thicker wood.
Everything said before is correct. Here's some additional information.
In addition to using the guard and anti-kickback device when you are ripping (which is a must), you may also wish to get an anti-kickback blade. They are not at the low end in price, and generally available only through catalogs. But they do take a smaller bite of wood and reduce (but not eliminate entirely) the tendency to kickback.
You can also rip on a bandsaw with a ripping blade. Boards that are really squirrelly on a table saw can be cut without all the wrestling, noise, and smoke on a bandsaw.
The wood you are trying to cut should lay flat on the table. If you are ripping and there is a twist in the board it makes it really difficult to keep from binding on the blade. The solution to this is to joint one face of the board flat and put the jointed face down on the table.
There's also the remote possibility that the overloading is aggravated by low voltage. If you are running the saw on a long extension cord or if your home has low voltage from the utility it can increase the amperage draw on the motor. But, it's much more likely the problem is with your blade.
It could also be (I'm no Electrician) because your breaker is rated higher than the amperage your T saw draws.
Waynel5 has a very valid point. Make sure your extension cord is as heavy a WIRE gauge as possible and also AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE. I assume your electric outlet is wired with 12 gauge wire and has a 20 Amp breaker. Too many extension cords are 16 gauge and will not deliver enough amperage for the saw. Cord should be 14 or better yet 12 gauge wire. If the cord is over 25 feet long, go for (or make) a 12 gauge extension cord.
Sawdust
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