Replies

1. 
   sawdustmaker | Apr 22, 2004 12:29am | #1

   Several publications offer plans for sleds. In fact, the latest issue of "Shop Notes" has a nifty sled featured that doubles as a miter sled. I've got one of each, but I'm looking at that one to save some room.

   I would recommend a front and back fence, although I've seen some simple ones that just sit to the right or left of the blade. Those only need one fence.

2. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2004 01:11am | #2

   Jackhall,

   No, you really can't cut dado's on a crosscut sled..unless its a left tilt...and based on age alone your craftsman probably doesn't qualify.

   A crosscut sled is no good unless its dead on accurate.  So what ever you build make sure its adjustable and you can test frequently.  Personally, I prefer one fense (in the front) 2" high which is attached to angle aluminum and the aluminum is attached to the sled (enlarged holes in aluminum and nuts and bolts).  I use the Incra runner in the dado...adjustable for a nice snug fit.  The overall dimensions are about 26x30.  I like it to hang a bit off the table so I can attach a clamp if needed.  I use the table saw fense and a carpenters square to check accuracy...
1. 
   jackhall | Apr 22, 2004 01:39am | #3

   Thanks for the tips.  Will use your advice on making the fence re-settable, however, I'm not familiar with Incra runners.  Are wooden runners subject to wear or swelling and therfore not accurate?  Also I don't know why I couldn't use a sled for cutting dados.  What does saw tilt have to do with dados?

1. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2004 02:46am | #4

   jackhall,

   Yes, you can use wood runners...or plastic.  I used the Incra (got it at woodcraft) because the oak did expand and contract and made the sled sloppy or sticky.  The Incra is metal and adjustable with an allen wrench.

   I assuming when you said you'd cut dado's that you would add dado blades to your arbor....and therefore cut into the sled?

1. 
   jackhall | Apr 22, 2004 03:15am | #5

   Yes, I was referring to use of the sled to crosscut dados in cabinet sides, etc.  The sled would need to have a suitable gap in the sled base to accomodate passage of the dado blades on the saw arbor.

1. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2004 05:06am | #6

   jackhall,

   Ok, were on the same wave length.  Yup, you can use your sled for the dado cuts. I just use my fense and register off the table top...

2. 
   AlanTurner | Apr 22, 2004 05:55pm | #7

   Dadoes are fine on a sled, but you will lose your zero clearance aspect of the sled.  Therefore, make a 1/4" plywood top for both sides of the sled, and use countersunk screws to fix it it several positions.  Move it apart for dados; together for a standard blade.  Or, make 2 sleds.  I have seen it done both ways.

   AlanAlan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

1. 
   Robbie | Apr 22, 2004 07:44pm | #8

   Highland Hardward has a very nice set of plans for building a sled.  It includes a unique "handsaw like" handle that will prevent you (better said as encourage you) from accidentally putting your hand where the saw blade moves through. 

   Just built two of them.  One for 24" wide stock and a smaller one for 15" wide stock.  Wish I had taken pictures.  I will endeavor to do so and post tomorrow. 

   Best,

   Bob

2. 
   jackhall | Apr 22, 2004 07:59pm | #9

   I like the idea of using a top which I can adjust to keep tight clearances on different size dado stacks or a single blade.  By the way what type of material and what thickness should I use for the base of the sled?

1. 
   AlanTurner | Apr 22, 2004 08:27pm | #10

   My preference is 3/4" mdf, finished with wiped on shellac.  MDF is quite flat, which is what you need.  That said, I do hate the stuff, and only use it for jigs, etc.  I do have a piece 3 x 5 that I throw onto my workbench as a drafting table when I am doing large scale plans.

   AlanAlan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

2. 
   jackhall | Apr 22, 2004 09:12pm | #11

   My only complaint with MDF is its tendency to sag over long, unsupported lengths.  In the case of the sled there should be no such problem.  Desiring to retain as much blade height as possible, would 1/2" or 5/8" MDF be adequate?

3. 
   AlanTurner | Apr 22, 2004 10:30pm | #12

   I don't see why not.

   AlanAlan

   http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com

4. 
   jackhall | Apr 22, 2004 10:42pm | #13

   Thanks for the help.

5. 
   Robbie | Apr 24, 2004 01:44am | #14

   I think you are right about MDF being a good flat product that should be just fine riding on the TS.  My concern would be what to do with it when it is not in use.  That would stink if it twisted or moved when being stored.  Perhaps hanging it would do the trick.  Then again, at the price, an MDF sled could almost be considered disposable. 

   I was my usual German self and way overbuilt the damn things.  Mine are formica laminated 5/8" baltic birch with a 6/4" maple front fence and a 1.5" thick baltic birch (3 pieces of 1/2" laminated) back fence.  I don't know why I cannot build a simple cheap jig, but it seems to be incompatible with my anal DNA.

6. 
   jackhall | Apr 24, 2004 02:22am | #15

   Your version of the sled sounds great. 

7. 
   Robbie | Apr 25, 2004 05:52am | #16

   Am trying to attach pictures (files per below) but cannot seem to get it to work...  Don't know what I am doing wrong.

   I browsed, found the file, pressed Upload and then done and puff... nothing.