Table saw technique for cutting a cylindrical section
bobbethune
| Posted in Jigs, Fixtures, Tips & Tricks on
In the video at https://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/08/07/5-mill-custom-crown-molding, Jeff Miller demonstrated a technique that allows one to cut a cylindrical section out of stock by passing the stock across a table saw blade at an angle.
I’d like to know more about this technique, but it’s hard to find because I don’t know what to call it!
So, what’s its name and where can I learn more?
Replies
Could you be thinking of "Cove cutting"?
The video did a great job of showing what he's talking about, but leaves a lot to be desired in the how of it. I'd like to see this broken down more. How to set up the fences, how to choose the angle, why 8" blade, etc. He did a great job of that with showing the bead attachment.
There's a lot of information out there on cove cutting with a table saw. Some of it has results from the angles approaching the blade, as well as beveling the blade itself. And of course, different diameter blades. Any result from a section of a circle to a parabola can be made.
I don't have links at hand, but a search for cove cutting on a table saw will turn up a lot.
There is a lot of good info here (yes, our search is getting better): https://www.finewoodworking.com/?s=cove+cutting
My favorite link, that really does it for my inner dork is this: https://www.finewoodworking.com/online-tools/cove-angle-calculator
Thanks for the leads. I'm also finding interesting information and videos by search on keyphrases such as "cove cutting table saw" and suchlike.
What I'm not finding is safety information. Where are the red lines? Will certain blades or blade types be particularly dangerous?
To my mind, the really interesting thing here is taking sections out of stock for things other than cove mouldings.
I use the method for trim and for some other design elements. I find a couple of aluminum extrusions clamped to the saw work well for me. I do like capturing the material between two "rails" so that I can concentrate 100% on feed rate. A smooth feed rate means less scraping / sanding later.
GeeDubBee is absolutely on the right track. I was building an easel years ago and was looking for a safe technique to cove cut the "shelf", that would hold pencils, chalks Etc.. You need to measure the width of the piece of wood you wish to cove cut and use two lengths of angled metal or hardwood and clamp them to your saw, essentially sandwiching the wood between said pieces. Figure the angle you wish to set all of the pieces at then slowly push the "cove" piece across your saw blade, making shallow cuts by raising the blade in small increments. Eventually you will achieve the cove you are looking for in a safe, controlled manner. The photo in GeeDubBee illustrateds exactly what the set up should look like. Good luck with your project
The calculator BS linked to is a must, mainly beacuse it lets you plan, and it makes the profiles repeatable. If you are not making extra "oops" stock at least mark your rails on the saw table in case you need more. Jointer paddles for feeding past the blade are a good idea.
I did that when my bandsaw was out. Go to Highland Woodworking News Online No. 138 Feb 2017 and checkout Project Idea: Occasional Coffee Table.
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