Replies

1. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 12, 2005 03:38am | #1

   Here's my method... a bit of time and elbow grease, but works like a charm.
   Liberally spray the top of the tablesaw with WD40. get a sheet of 100 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Use a wood block. Sand North-South, more WD-40 and sand East-West. Apply some more WD40 and sand Northeast-Southwest. Get a new piece of 100 grit wet/dry, more WD40 and sand Southeast-Northwest. Wipe everything clean and repeat with 220 grit. Again wipe CLEAN. Use a ROS (randon orbit sander) with a scotch-brite pad and apply a coat of Johnsons paste wax (or Butchers wax). NEITHER of these waxes contain any silicone which can give you problems later down the road. Let the wax dry and buff with a clean rag. Apply a second coat of wax. Again let it dry for at least one hour and buff with a clean rag. You may not get the surfaces bright and shinny but they will be smooth. Once a month apply a bit of wax and buff. I've been using this method for over 35 years. This system always works for me. Some of the machines I have salvaged were so rusty that after this cleaning method they glow with a nice Plumb Brown color, similar to the browning (Blueing) process used on gun barrels. SawdustSteve

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 13, 2005 08:50pm | #8

   WD40 smells ALOT.. I just use some plain old 30 weight motor oil... And My orbits sander...  Just light sanding when needed.. Works like a charm..

   I just hate the smell of WD-40!  Sorry...

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 12, 2005 06:16am | #2

   If you're not into all that elbow grease, then you can find a local machine shop, and have it blanchard ground.  they can make the top dead flat, and take off just enough of the cast iron to eliminate the rust and pitting.  I've had it done to two 50 plus year old machines, with great results.

   Jeff

1. 
   n1k86 | Jun 12, 2005 07:45am | #3

   how much did that set ya back?  I'm lookin to get an older saw, probably a unisaw, and alot of the ones ive seen are rusted, etc. 

   Thanks,

   Nick

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 13, 2005 04:20pm | #6

   My cost for the grinding won't be a fair judgement of the market.  I own a concrete business also, and we were doing work at the machine shops location.  I simply discounted our work a little, and he did the grinding for me.

   Jeff

1. 
   Sancho | Jun 13, 2005 04:46pm | #7

   Belt sander??? I was going to suggest useing a ROS with some 180 then go over it with paste wax. But If it still doesnt do the trick for ya..Ya might have to take it to a machine shop and have have them put it on a lapping machine......

   Cost some bucks but you'll be happy with the result  

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2. 
   n1k86 | Jun 14, 2005 04:25am | #9

   gotcha

3. 
   KeithNewton | Jun 12, 2005 04:15pm | #4

   Almost everyting was 3 phase but the table saw was 220 , 
   You know it can be 3 ph. and still be 220 don't you? It will require 3 hot leads if it is. Make sure before you hook it up with only 2.

1. 
   Isamemon | Jun 12, 2005 10:43pm | #5

   no it is 220 as it is not the original motor . when it was new it was probabally 3 phase. All of the newer stuff was standard 220.

   thanks for the advice.

   I also posted on breaktime, and what I ended up doing was running my belt sander on it, started at 80 grit and worked my way up to 220. "floated " it around in circles, so I was not just going one direction all the time.

   constantly wiping down.

   then in experimet, hit it with some old, silicone free  car paste wax, works good now, but before I cut anything with a finihs quality, will spray on   automotive wax ( grease and decal) remover, and then put on the waxs listed above