Table saw tops can be machined on a Blanchard grinder. The table is magnetic and rotates slowly in the oppisite direction as the huge cutter head. I bought a used 1955 Wadkin Bursgreen 14 in. cabinet saw and having worked as a machinist / welder / mechanic all rolled into one for many years I couldn`t possibly rebuild that saw and leave the top looking like it did. I found a machine shop not to many miles away that had the capability of machining the 38 x 50 table with the wings left on during machining. I believe the cost was around 250. Looked real nice when I picked it up. I leaned it up against a wall for a year or so and now the top is on the saw . I put a straight edge from front to back in the blade area and I have a .060 to .070 crown rite next to the blade cut out on either side. So I suppose it warped but I don`t know why. Its thin in that area so maybe there was a little bit of deflection, but not .070. From just under the top to the floor the saw is beautiful, the saw is built in such a way that you couldn`t wear it out in 200 yrs. But finding another top may be almost impossible and fitting another brand top on there might be a trick being how the blade probably lives in a different spot. Input would be welcome at this time!
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Replies
Blanchard grinding the top was a good call. It was flat when you picked it up.
The casting did not sag under its own weight leaned against a wall.
It is possible that this casting--thin and flat with a heavy edge rim--is bistable due to internal stresses, like the bottom of an oilcan that has been expanded so it will pump back and forth. A bistable plate will have 2 positions where the internal stresses are in equilibrium, and it may pop back and forth between them. The condition isn't confined to metal; it can be a big problem with tempered glass which has deliberately introduced internal stresses to strengthen it. One good bounce on the ride home could have popped it from one stable position to the other, depending on how it was supported.
You can try pushing it back to where it should be. Clamp a heavy beam to the casting front and back with space for wedges between them and tap the wedges until it is 0.01 or so past where it is supposed to be. If it is bistable, the internal streses will be in balance again, and it will pop back. Use wedges, not a hydraulic jack.
I had a similar problem with the cast iron fence on a Northfield jointer some years ago.
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