Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | May 02, 2010 11:18pm | #1

   tops vs. topless

   One method is to run small dados in the skirts and use wooden cleats to attach the top in such a way as to allow for seasonal expansion of the top. Otherwise, the table may end up topless.  ;-)

1. 
   oldusty | May 02, 2010 11:55pm | #2

   Ralph , If I understand your post you still need to fasten (screw)  the cleat to the underside of the top the way I do it ,

                       regards , dusty

1. 
   GRW | May 03, 2010 06:28am | #3

   I use these..

   http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?srch=usr&filter=tabletop+fasteners

   They can be bought in bulk at lower prices.. Check the web for suppliers.

   As was mentioned above, a screw will be needed to attach the cleat to the top.

   It does allow for tabletop movement though.

   GRW

2. 
   RalphBarker | May 03, 2010 09:34am | #4

   yep

   Yep, whether the cleat is made of wood or metal, it needs to be attached (screwed, or otherwise) to the underside of the table top. There are different approaches to allowing for top movement, including space in the cleat-tongue/dado fit, elongated screw hole, etc.

2. 
   DonStephan | May 03, 2010 07:42pm | #7

   Wood Button

   The cleat Ralph has suggested is also known as a wood button, and has been described in several FWW articles.

   If the original poster (OP?) was looking for an alternative to an immobile or hard screw connection that can't allow the top to expand and contract, the cleat or wood button is a good option.  The button is hard connected to the tabletop;, but the button's tenon can move into and out of the mortise, and slide along the mortise.

   Figure 8's, which may be the reference in another reply, have to be screwed to both the apron and the top, but again there is the capability for the top to expand and contract if the 8's are installed correctly.

   Hope this helps.

2. 
   flairwoodworks | May 03, 2010 09:50am | #5

   No Screws?

   I suppose if you really did not want to use screws, you could use the method Ralph mentioned and glue the buttons to the underside of the table.  On workbenches (with really heavy tops), the tops are sometimes just held in place with a blind pin at each end to prevent sliding, and gravity.

   And if you wanted to get really fancy, you could probably design some kind of sliding dovetail to attach the top to the base and still allow for seasonal movement.

   Or you could use stable materials (MDF, plywood, etc) and just glue the top right to the base.  Or nails.

   I've always been good at thinking laterally.

3. 
   user-64052 | May 03, 2010 01:27pm | #6

   one could always use a bungy cord or nails

   ron

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | May 04, 2010 09:53am | #8

   Nah... Ron! That's what one's wife would expect and you have to create alternatives to keep an air of mystery to the relation-ship!

   haha...

4. 
   oldusty | May 04, 2010 10:05am | #9

   here is one way

   
5. 
   user-64052 | May 04, 2010 12:01pm | #10

   perhaps if you shared more information of why you have an aversion to fastening the top down with screws, it would be easier to understand on what the challenge is

   or is this just a dream about making something without screws??

   ron

1. 
   1qaz2wsx | May 09, 2010 11:02pm | #11

   No screws or nails

   I am mostly triing to do things the way they might have been done 200yrs ago...mortice and tennon/dove tails and such by hand, but i havent been able to find any example that show how the tops ove the tables where attached.  Maybe they did use screws.  Thanks for your thoughts.

1. 
   Frank Vucolo | May 21, 2010 09:36pm | #13

   Screws are old. Heck, even pocket holes are old. if you want it make it 'period' try using slotted screws, maybe even brass.

   Screw it all up with phillips or square drives, then one by one remove and replace with slotted screws. They go in much easier that way. Trying to get slotted screws in - especially soft metal ones - is trying.

   Frank

2. 
   user-64052 | May 22, 2010 12:28am | #14

   as Frank(I think) said screwa have been around for a long time. predrill your holes and the screw shouldn't be tight in the hole on the piece that  you are fastening. remember to leave room for the top to move and stay away from brass screws unless you know what you are doing as they break off pretty easy

   a good reference book is , "encyclopedia of furniture making" by ernest joyce and  and the revised edition by alan peters isbn#0-8069-6440-5.  itt covers a lot of good points for beginners and anyone else

   ron

3. 
   AZMO | May 22, 2010 06:46pm | #16

   Screws

   Many of my antiques used screws or square nails. Quite common. They were hand made and with a slot for the screw driver. Other ways were glued blocks, joining the apron and the top on one side and then screws on the other. They were quite expensive so if you could get by with just a few it was better.

6. 
   alan23 | May 19, 2010 11:29pm | #12

   I use table top clips from woodcraft and a #10 pan head screw i biscut the slots in the skirt and then cover them with a glue block i bore a hole and cut it in half.

7. 
   derekcohen | May 22, 2010 10:51am | #15

   I used this button system recently ...

   http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AShakerTableforMothersDay_html_m7af1055e.jpg

   Create a slot (shoulder plane, router, biscuit jointer).

   Saw an insert to fit the slot.

   Glue a block to the underside of the table.

   Slide in the insert, leave a little wiggle room for expansion, and screw into glued block.

   Done.

   http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/Furniture/Shaker%20table%20for%20Lynndy/Final4.jpg

   Regards from Perth

   Derek