Replies

1. 
   RW | Apr 02, 2006 05:06am | #1

   Jointer, clamps & cauls is all you need. never heard the concave edge thing before.

   "Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton

1. 
   user-129103 | Apr 02, 2006 12:46pm | #2

   Thanks

    

    

   I'm planning to by a jointer (or Thicknesser in UK) is there any need for the type with the top part on them ?

1. 
   Lataxe | Apr 02, 2006 09:04pm | #3

   Andy,

   Plane planks flat on one side first.  When one side is flat, plane one edge flat and at 90 degrees to that first flat side, by running the flattened side against the fence with the edge to be flattened down on the planer table).

   The above actions use the planer (UK-speak) or top part of the planer-thicknesser machine.

   Next, use the thicknesser (bottom part of the machine) to flatten side 2 of the plank, by running it through with side 1 (the side first flattened) facing down on to the thicknesser table.

   You now have a flat plank of even thickness and one straight, 90-degree-square edge.  Straighten and square the last edge by running the plank through the tablesaw (or through the thicknesser, flat edge down on the table, if your machine has the depth).

   If you don't flatten the plank first (assuming it isn't already truly flat) running it through the thicknesser only will merely give you a non-flat plank of even thickness.

   Some people make a very shallow dip in the middle of plank edges that are to be joined into a single flat table top or cabinet side.  A handplane is the usual method. The "dip" on each plank is a mere 0.25mm or less at its deepest. 

   The theory is that if the planks shrink across their width, subsequent to being joined together, the ends of the joints won't open up, as the middle of the planks have been squished together to close that dip. 

   Personally, I start with fully dried planks and don't use the dip.