I have a small table top band saw. I use it for hobby work and not very often at that. I find that if I want to cut straight I have to aim at least ten degrees to the right. It didn’t come with a manual. What gives?
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Replies
Probably a bad blade. My bandsaw does the same thing with certain blades. I can't be sure what it is about the blade that does it, but suspect the set of some teeth has been lost and when the band gets around to them it cuts away from the damaged teeth. I'd be glad to hear what others say. I do know at least one of my blades do this and others are just fine. Carl
Virtually all bandsaws (at least of the non-industrial variety) manifest what is called "blade drift". This is probably at least partly what you're seeing with your saw, although the other factors mentioned in post #2 may also be contributing. I'm not familiar with the use of a bench-top bandsaw, but with 14" saws like mine, improper blade tension (too low) can exacerbate drift.
What you might want to do is install a new blade, tune the saw up well (however you do that with a BT saw), including tension if that's possible, and then establish what your blade drift is by doing the following:
Take a piece of lumber with straight grain and draw a straight line lengthwise down the middle. Start ripping it along this line, and stop when you're half-way through. Look at the board -- it will be sitting at an angle to the blade (and thereby to the sides of the table). That angle is your blade drift. Many people will use that angle to adjust their fence for blade drift when ripping or resawing.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 11/28/2002 2:07:23 PM ET by forest_girl
I've had 2 floor model bands saws and they both did the same, though probably not by quite as much as 10 degees off. I've concluded that instead of trying to fuss with it to get it back in alignment, just go with the flow and angle the stock in the direction the blade wants to cut. I seldom use a fence, just follow the pencil line on the stock. GP
Asennad,
I have a table top also, a three wheeler. Don't waste another cent on it. Put your coat, sweater or apron over it and use the table top for a tool that works instead of aggravating.
Perhaps another blade is worth a try. Mine cuts on a ten degree slope...and drifts...and the blade comes off the wheels if you try to go in any direction accept straight ahead. I have tightened it as much as possible and tried to insure the wheels were in the same plane, adjusted and re-adjusted the bearings. Lastly, I bought the Band Saw book...
My advice, write santa for a new toy.
ASENNAD
Your B/T doesn't have quality guides and bearing. This will get magnified more if you're using a very narrow blade. As stated by previous poster, you would probaly be better off free-handing the stock through. Draw a line and practice a little, you'll get the feel. I free-hand on everything but re-sawing which I use a point fence with the stock only making contact with it at one point.
Depending where you are, I have a Jet 12" with cast iron body for $260 and the truck freight. If interested, let me know.
Good Luck..
sarge..jt
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