Hi all,
I recently got my hands on a table top, which I decided to Sand and refinish, and there is a board that wasn’t glued properly, and the join is coming apart.
Do any of you have any suggestion on how to fix these joins from coming apart, short of ripping with a tables saw and re-glue. this is not an option because this top have a very specific shape which I would love to preserve, and me ripping it with the table saw would mess up the shape and the top is rounded so to get a perfect rip cut would be quite difficult.
I considered getting a syringe and needle to inject some glue in the failed join and re-clamping the top but I’m concerned that I wont get a great spread of glue in the join and there for a bad glue up.
Any Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
A track saw would make quick work of the rip wth a thinner kerf than a tablesaw. Add a strip of wood to make up for the lost material and reglue. The real trick is the color match, but sice you plan to sand and refinish it should be easier. Good luck!
thanks _MJ_ I do not have access to a track saw or band saw. but this is a real good suggestion.
Do you have a router ?
I do have access to a router.
Then you could rout a 1/8" or so groove and glue an inlay.
Hi Gulfstar thanks for the suggestion.
You could also mount it on plywood to run through the tablesaw. A few screws into the underside would do it.
Leaving it on the plywood would give you places to add clamping blocks for the re-glue.
Thanks so much for this reply.
Depending on how you are going to use the table, you could use a butterfly to keep it from opening more.
it is a Dining Room table.
I like the idea of doing a butterfly join this is some thing I have never tried before.
What I recommend, that I've used on my own walnut factory-made table, is to force epoxy into the crack on the top side, and then reinforce the bottom where it won't be seen by using a router with 3/4" diameter bit and a straight edge to make a 1/8" - 3/16" deep groove along the crack. Then glue in a strip of wood and plane it down smooth with the table surface. I try to use a wood species that is less prone to linear splitting such as maple, sycamore, cherry or birch (not oak or ash) so the patch doesn't resplit along the crack. You can start the groove a half inch or so inside the edge of the table so it doesn't show on the edge. I did this type of repair in multiple places on my walnut table a couple years ago and it seems to be holding up fine.
Hi Jharveyb, Thanks alot for this suggestion.