Replies

1. 
   Steve_Schoene | Jun 20, 2000 11:19pm | #1

   *
   You can build a finish with gloss varnish, rubbing out imperfections with hand held sandpaper--no sanding blocks to cut through on the high points from planing. Then, if you need a flat finish you would have to add flatting agent to the varnish and apply the finish quite carefully to avoid having to rub it out. But, even if you do have to rub out the final coat, you will have a flat finish in the tea routt places instead of gloss. Close inspection might reveal the difference between a pumice "scratched" satin and a flatting agent satin, but no one but no one except you would ever notice.

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Jun 21, 2000 01:18pm | #2

   *My favorite finish (for antique refinishing) is a 50/50 mix of satin marine spar varnish (NOT poly) and mineral spirits. I apply it with a foam brush and then immediately wipe it off with lintless cloth. Do look carefully for runs. You can also apply it with a rag. The first couple of coats will not look very good but press on. For a table top I apply at least 8 coats and for sides 6. This sounds like a lot but they dry quickly and are easy to apply. After curing for 30 days, apply a good wax coat. This finish is impervious to alcohol and water and is very scratch resistant.

1. 
   bcanada | Jul 07, 2000 05:04am | #3

   *I looking to put a finish on my everyday kitchen table. Its a blond wood that looks like beach of birch. Its probabably a look alike for South American Amazon somewhere. Any suggestions for a durable yet clear finish. Thanks.

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Jul 07, 2000 01:28pm | #4

   *The finish I posted above your question will be very suitable. Might want to put a couple of more coats on.

1. 
   Jed_C. | Jul 07, 2000 03:39pm | #5

   *Does beach of birch grow near the Firth of Forth?

2. 
   rich_mich | Oct 07, 2000 04:18am | #6

   *I have done the same thing-more out of laziness than my like for tearout. I use a clear pore filler by crystal lac. Look in McFeely's catalog-the company that makes square drive fasteners. I've used the pore filler on a rosewood table top with very slight tear outs from my planer. Then I topped it Behlens rock hard table top varnich-works great.

3. 
   gary_bakalik | Mar 23, 2001 03:52pm | #7

   *I've asked this question before to others, but no response - what is a "flatting" agent? I've never heard the term before and am interestd in knowing more about softening the lustre of a piece when using gloss poly as a topcoat. I typically build coats of gloss poly and the final coat will be either semi-gloss or satin. Is there an agent I can add to the gloss poly? Please specify the name and where to buy. Thanks.

4. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Mar 23, 2001 05:26pm | #8

   *Gary, its called "flatting agent" or "flattener". The semi-gloss and satin polys you've been using are gloss poly with a flatting agent added to it. I would guess that different finishes use different material to flat them.Jeff Jewitt sells a flattener for shellac at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/Shellaccatalog.htm . He could probably sell you flattener for other products, or refer you to those who can. For products that you can buy off the shelf already flattened, I personally wouldn't bother.Dave

5. 
   gary_bakalik | Mar 24, 2001 04:29pm | #9

   *Dave,With the product I've been using (Last'NLast) poly, I believe the chemical composition is quite different in the gloss vs semi and satin finish and I've been told that the finish will be more durable if I build the finish with several coats of gloss with the final coat to my sheen liking. I would prefer to use a "flatting" agent with the gloss finish knowing it would produce a more durable surface rather than a softer, chemically different semi or satin finish. That is the reason I'm interested in a "flatting" agent for gloss.

6. 
   Dave_Arbuckle | Mar 25, 2001 06:50am | #10

   *I am not familiar with that brand, and anything is possible. But, I would postulate that the difference in chemical composition is the flatting agent, and that the reason the finish is softer is the flatting agent has "jinxed the mix", so to speak.I always (always!) recommend building a finish with gloss, for the reason that a gloss finish is clearer. A simple test of each shows this readily.In any case, my confidence in Mr. Jewitt is extremely high. If it's out there, Jeff knows of it. :-)Dave

7. 
   Gretchen_ | Mar 25, 2001 06:40pm | #11

   *It doesn't seem to me that the finish will be "softer" with satin poly since poly is by definition a short oil varnish as opposed to marine spar which is a long oil and thereby softer and more flexible. Which by the way is not a bad thing--just different. The poly may chip more easily because it is harder and less forgiving. Just use satin for your final coat or use satin throughout. That has worked for me, with the spar varnish--and notspar poly.